Here Today, Yangon tomorrow...
Trip Start
Jan 10, 2011
1
15
Trip End
Feb 04, 2011
Yangon, Yangon, Myanmar
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Last day of the trip.Wake up in the tiled walled but windowless room of the Everest Hotel. No need to sleep in late as it's not the cheeriest place around. Nice People though. Grab the complimentary breakfast in the lobby, watching the staff looking at the Egyptian uprising on satellite TV. Conjured up memories of the 2008 Monk uprising and its subsequent brutal end. The next day was to be the first convening of Myanmar's "Democratically selected" Parliament up in the gleaming new Capital of Nayipidaw. As a result the Burmese seem to have a wait and see attitude today. Their mind not necessarily focused on street protests. Yet...
I walk to Motherland Guest House to check in and drop off my bag before hitting the streets one last day. Sigh...Reminds me of the dread I'd feel as a kid on the last day of Summer before having to go back to School. What to do?I'd want to stretch it out as looong as possible, delaying the inevitable.What to do?? In this case it's easy...Not much. Or rather, just zigzag around downtown, sit around in sidewalk Tea shops,browse street markets, snap pictures, what else?
I walked by the Yangon Synagogue in the hope of getting a glimpse of the inside, alas it was closed and no one was available to let me in. Again! Third time in Yangon, and still haven't made it in, oh well just not in the cards. I do snap a few pics of the outside.
The skies above Yangon bore the ominous signs of an approaching downpour. Could it be that I would hit the rain jackpot twice in the same trip? First day in and last day out?...Sure felt that way. Stifling thick humidity, people going about their business in a brisk manner while throwing glances at the sky, book vendors getting their tarps or packing up altogether. I opted for the same brisk pace and headed in the direction of the Bogyoke Aung San covered market. In the nick of time too as the skies ripped open in a tropical Deluge.
The covered two story market itself is a pleasant enough place to stroll around in.These days it's mostly geared towards the tourist market, but I was happy enough to stroll around. I wasn't in the market for anything to buy, just staying dry. I think the rain was good for business as the place was packed with others like me. Every few minutes, I was approached by persons offering me their services in changing money. Not for me alas as it served as yet another reminder of it being my last day in the country.
For the record, the marketplace is a legit place to get some decent rates for your Dollars. As long as the transaction takes place at the market (usually a gem or jeweler's booth) Do NOT follow anyone out of the market. There's an organized ring of Indian money changers who specialize in shortchanging tourists. It happened to me on my first visit, within hours of arriving! Insist on Kyat bills no smaller than 1000's. (no bigger either....1000's! and in good shape please) Your Guesthouse, large Hotels or even some travel agents can also change dough but at a slightly lower rate. But Never do it with the street guys! If you do, change no more than $40 at first. Count it all before handing over your bills, if they're legit come back later and change more.Yangon tends to have the better rate than upcountry. $100's get you higher rate than lower denominations of course.
I kept watching the skies for hopeful signs of a break in the rain. The reason being that on my way in, a month ago, I missed my visit to the Shwedagon due to a fierce Downpour. I wasn't going to let that happen again. As soon as weather permitted (or not...) I would hoof it over there. I couldn't bear the thought of leaving Burma without experiencing the vibes of that Pagoda, it would feel akin to some sort of Blasphemous act. It was getting late afternoon and I was itching to go. At the first sign of the weather clearing up I headed towards the golden Stupa that dominates the skyline of Yangon. Fearing I would miss out on the changing light of dusk I flagged a cab down and bargained him down to an acceptable rate and we puttered the last mile to the eastern entrance of the sacred site. The Place wasn't as crowded as usual. Dropped my shoes at the shoe-check and climbed the long covered stairway .
The mood was a bit more subdued than on my previous visits. Being one part,sacred site, one part community center and one part public park, I missed the carnivalesque mood experienced on other visits. Gongs and bells, neon and flickering halos, incense, and wind chimes blended with the murmur of the crowd, chanting and praying as well as shrieks of playing children running around, meals being eaten etc... all this enveloped in rich warm glowing colors made the more dramatic by the changing light of dusk. None of it makes me feel spiritual in the least but it sure feels, looks and sounds great!
Satisfied I've soaked up enough of the Shwedagon vibe, I take my leave descending the long staircase of the Eastern gate. On my first visit I didn't make a mental note of where from I came in and went down the wrong staircase. It's a loong one! Had to climb baaack up and get my bearings, find some visual cues as to which way to proceed etc...The changing light from dusk till night and the fact that the place is immense coupled with the number of Buddha statues of different size and stature that tend to blend into one...it can be pretty disorienting. Not this time, hardened veteran that I am...You're probably thinking, what's the big deal? I'll tell you what..they've got your shoes at the other entrance, wanna walk a half mile around the perimeter on the dark uneven streets? No thanks...
At the base of the stairs I flagged down a cab. At first the guy wanted to charge me an exorbitant amount for the short downtown ride. I walked away, glad to stroll back to town until he drove up alongside and agreed on "My" price. Thank you very much, it's my LAST day, not my first day pal...
Jumped out at bustling Anawratha rd. Night market stalls spilling over the narrow sidewalks.I was hungry for some mouth watering Biryani at the busy Indian restaurant there. The Place is always packed, fast paced and brightly lit in fluorescent tubes. Cozy romantic spot it's not. A definite fast food joint that's cheap and delicious. Chicken Biryani and a Lassi for dessert. Yum!
Stumbled back on the potholed sidewalks in the direction home, briefly entertained the idea of taking in a movie but satisfied myself with snapping some pics of the theaters instead.
Halfway home I was accosted by a Trishaw driver offering me a fare...turned it down at first then changed my mind and called him back. Able bodied as I am, I feel a bit uncomfortable being transported by a skinny undernourished driver struggling with the shoddy equipment over the uneven and dark streets.
But I quickly get over it, the guy has a family to support and needs the business! So there. I got off before getting all the way home as I wanted to walk a bit more in the Yangon night. He tried to pry off more money than agreed. Sorry man, a deal's a deal. Good Night!
Back at the Motherland II, where I'm glad I patched things up with the Proprietess. Having stayed there on all my trips to Burma, it felt right to spend a last night there. (Not to mention the free ride to the airport).
Spent the rest of the night guzzling down cold Myanmar-beer on the street facing patio. Sharing trip advice to the newly arrived. Jealous of their Virginity, while sharing in the excitement of their upcoming trip.
Goodnight Yangon, Good Luck Burma, and Goodbye...
