The Northern Tip of Denmark
Trip Start
Jun 16, 2011
1
27
38
Trip End
Aug 01, 2011
Skagen, Jutland, Denmark
Friday, July 15, 2011
Today's activities were much like those that Jeanette, Claudia, and I experienced with Hanne and Klaus ten years ago. And just as then, it turned out to be a perfect day. It was cloudy, but comfortably warm. We were headed to Skagen, the northern tip of Jutland. The tip is called Grenen (the branch) for the little part that sticks out to form the tip.
In the distance, as we first headed north, we saw three large globes that look like giant golf balls. These are listening posts for traffic in the waters between Denmark, Norway and Sweden. During the Cuban Missile Crisis, these posts noticed unusual traffic and were the first to notify the U. S. about it.
We took a road that led us through a rolling hills area, very different from the typically flat landscape of Denmark. The view of the homes nestled in the green hills was lovely. In the town of Bjergby (Mountain Town) - a few hills and the Danes call it a mountain! There was a little park area called Petersplads (Peter’s Place). Peter Jensen lived in the town. Over the years he made animals from scrap metal and cement. After he died, the animals were placed in this park area. They are quite delightful to see and no doubt school children love to run around looking at them. Peter himself best described how they were made: "You see, it’s so easy, so easy, when you’ve got the materials! You take some different colored cement, some scrap-metal and some old car bumpers. Then you screw the bumpers together into a skeleton, fold some chicken wire over and then you fasten some plated metal down by the bellies, so that the insides don’t fall out and then you just slap some concrete onto this load of crap…"
Heading further north, we crossed a little river and stopped to take a look. Hanne told us about her involvement with this river. For my educator friends back home, this is very interesting. When the children start at the gymnasium, they will be in a class of 28 students and they will stay together through the three years, taking all their classes together. Years ago Hanne started these team-building activities, which is now done at the school every year for all the new classes - about 13 a year. Hanne’s particular activity is a two-day canoe ride on this river. They go 10 km the first day and 15 the next. Each day they are in a canoe with different people. Students are assigned different responsibilities – clean-up, food, etc. for the trip. Along the trip they get to know each other, they learn to coordinate their activities and they learn problem solving. Two teachers are on the trip; in case there is an emergency, one will be left with the class.
On the way to Skagen we stopped to look at the huge sand dune, Råbjerg Mile, that is slowly moving across that part of Denmark. This migrating coastal dune between the Skagerak and Kattegat seas is approximate 1 kilometer square in size with a height of 40 meters (130 feet) I moves approximately 15 to 18 meters a year. It was formed over 300 years ago and will reach the main highway in 2200 and Kattegat 30 years later.
We drove to the sand dune on a road that was not the typical asphalt road. This was a road built by the Germans in WWII to transport heavy equipment and materials to build the bunkers, as well as to transport troops. There are remnants of many bunkers along the west coast of Denmark.
Hanne and I climbed up to the top of the sand dune. We were impressed that they had added rubber-like large pads to form a path that enable wheelchairs to get to the top. At the top we saw a man in a wheelchair, there with his family, just enjoying the experience and so grateful that he was able to get up there. It was a spectacular sight looking at the dune from the top.
Next was the lovely town of Skagen, a resort with beaches, cute shops, many hotels and restaurants, and the fabulous Skagen Museum. Skagen lies between the straits of Skagerrak and Kattegat. A narrow portion called Grenen (the Branch) extends north. From here you see the waves of the two seas clashing together and often you see the two different colors of the two straits. The Kattegat separates Denmark from Sweden and the Skagerrak separates Denmark from Norway.
In the 19th century artists escaping the city came to Skagen, many of their works now on exhibit at the Skagen Museum. Ten years ago Jeanette, Claudia and I were there with Hanne and Klaus and spent a long time in the museum, also enjoying a nice outdoor lunch. We repeated all of that this time, having lunch at a table right by the one where we sat ten years ago. One of the artists, primarily a writer, was Holger Drachman. These artists are well known by Danes – funny that two people had commented that Carl looks like Holger Drachmann. I’ve included a picture. What do you think?
There is something just captivating about this museum and the story of the Skagen Painters. Skagens Museum was founded in the dining room at Brøndum’s Hotel in Skagen on October 20, 1908 for the purpose of gathering the works of the Skagen artists and to raise economic funding for the building of a museum. In 1919 the hotel’s old garden was donated to Skagen's Museum. Here the building of the museum was commenced in 1926 and completed in 1928.
I took a picture in the garden of a large white rose bush because it reminded me of the print I have from a Skagen painting, “Roses” by P. S. Krøyer, painted in 1893. I’ve included pictures of some of the Skagen paintings. The whole garden was just beautiful. Everywhere this year I have seen hydrangea in full bloom in many colors.
I have to say Denmark is the country of bicycles. They are everywhere! My cousin Joan told me that CNN did a special on Copenhagen, the city of bicycles. We see people riding bicycles everywhere and there are bike paths along many roads and in the cities.
We drove toward Grenen and walked around a bit. On the beaches are the remnants of many German WWII bunkers. The bunkers here served mainly as observation posts. One had slid out into the ocean, giving the birds a place to land.
We took the Sand Worm to “Grenen.” We had a great time walking out to the very northern tip of Denmark, all the way out in the shallow water, seeing the two seas come together.
Next we drove by Den Tilsandede Kirke (sand-buried church), a church built in the 1300's. In the 16th century, the sand began to cause problems. The church was closed in 1795 after the sand dunes made it too difficult to come to the church. Many materials and items in the church were removed and used elsewhere. The remainder of the church is under the sand. From the tower is a very nice view out over the area and the water. Along the water many ships were lined up. Hanne told us they are likely waiting for Danish pilots to come and steer them into ports or through Danish waters.
Back at Hanne and Klaus’ home we had a tour of their lovely garden. With all the rain, the gardens here are so green and lush. They really have a beautiful garden around the house and a place for a large kitchen garden on the other side of their driveway. This is Hanne’s project. Carl kept talking so much about how he is enjoying the new potatoes in Denmark, so she had him come with her to dig out some potatoes. I had the fun of peeling them, which is simply done by rubbing them around in your hands with some abrasive gloves. The very thin peeling comes off easily. And so we had another wonderful dinner - great food and good time with friends.
The day had been nice – without rain, but cloudy. We did not expect to be able to see a sunset, which can be beautiful on the coast. Carl looked outside at some point and noticed it was clear. So off we went to catch the sunset. We are very glad we did – absolutely a gordeous sunset that kept changing in appearance every minute. It was so cold! Jeanette and Claudia – you remember a cold night on the west coast of Denmark ten years ago. Cold, refreshing and invigorating – so much fun!
Before heading home, Hanne and Klaus drove us trough the little town of Lønstrup and to an area where the cliffs are falling into the ocean. The edge is approaching an old church with a cemetery. The church is being taken apart to be relocated elsewhere. I imagine they will also relocate as much as they can of the cemetery as possible.
That was definitely a full day - just a perfect day! Skagen is just a place that has to be experienced. The sunset was definitely the icing on the cake.
Comments
Brigit
I remember these places as if they were yesterday! (The tip of Denmark, standing in the ocean where the two seas meet, the sand worm, the German bunkers, the restaurant garden, the museum with the lovely paintings - all of it! - even the sunset on the beach!) Your pictures are fabulous. Hanna looks so good; just as I remember her. Her home and garden are beautiful. Thanks for a step back in time.
Looking forward to seeing you when you return.
I too remember our days there. The pictures almost put tears in my eyes, ten years went by so fast. Thanks so much for sharing!! See you soon. Jeanette