The Journey to Peru

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  Trujillo, Peru
Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Once the strike mentioned in the last post had abated we were on our way again; heading south from Loja and into Peru. We had spent longer than planned in Ecuador and so had a great many hours of bus awaiting us before arriving in Cusco in 4 days time. Apart from some dramatic scenery, massive cliffs dropping away from the road and daring driving from our caffeine-fuelled bus driver, there is not much to be said about this. Having said that, I was struck by the picture of the Virgin Mary sitting where one would normally find a rear-view mirror. This was illuminated whenever the driver hit the brakes, presumably offering up a prayer to our continued survival ;-)

After crossing the border and a brief stop to change buses in Piura, we arrived in Chiclayo. Our taxi-blockade enforced stay in Loja meant we didn't have time to visit the local attractions and were off the next morning to Trujillo. By now, we were just about bussed out and decided to stop for the day and see what could be seen.

Trujillo is home to a series of substantial archaeological remains of various pre-Inka civilisations. These included the Moche funerary pyramids and Chan-Chan, the largest Adobe city (that’s mud brick to you and me) in the world.

The Moche were around between 100 BC and 700 AD. One king after another left his tomb behind him and the next would build on top of it, gradually creating a step pyramid. Apparently, one of the two pyramids was the largest man made building in the western hemisphere – 45m tall - until the Spaniards decided to divert a river to destroy it (or most of it at any rate) and see what came out in the wash. The second pyramid fared a little better and you can see the colourful wall paintings of their gods in the photos.

Chan-Chan was built by the Chimu from about 700 AD to 1400, when the Inkas turned up. It really is a massive site, of the same scale as a modern town, but you can only look round one of the king’s compounds. This included lots of carvings in the mud of all manner of things. In general they seemed to represent earth, sea and sky. The numbers 7 and 4 were also quite significant. Something to do with the lunar calendar.

There were a great many ladies slapping mud on the ruins, apparently keeping them in full working order for our viewing pleasure. The men didn’t get involved in this, our guide told us, they only do the archaeology. Something to do with women being caring souls and men liking to hack holes in the ground!

Catherine wasn’t dead keen on this guide after he confidently informed us that all British people were very tall and so she was something of an oddity. Little did he know that she was the one carrying the tip money...

Accommodation Price:   3 Bootes

Bed:                                    2 Bootes (plastic duvet, need I say more)

Shower:                              2 Bootes

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Post your own travel photos for friends and family Pictures

Bridge to Peru	Walls in main square in Chan Chan compound	More designs carved into the Adobe	The remains of Adobe walls in the compound
Designs of birds	The main walls of the compound	Passageways	Repairs being undertaken
The main square	Outer wall	Moche god	Catherine and the god
Excavated floor of pyramid	Larger pyramid (mostly destroyed) in the distance	Original colours!	Me next to the main wall of the pyramid
7 levels of designs are visible	Peruvian hairless dog	The gouge was made by the Spanish-looking for gold

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