The dream of dreams... and more flies

Trip Start Jan 22, 2010
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Trip End Mar 22, 2010


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What I did
walked 10km around the ROCK in 38C degrees

Flag of Australia  , Northern Territory,
Thursday, February 18, 2010

POLSKI:
 Gdy moj kierowca Simon wysadzil mnie na obrzezach Tennant Creek, szybko zlapalam ogromna ciezarowke (tzw. road train, czyli drogowy pociag) do Alice Springs. Biegnac od jej konca do poczatku mialam okazje pocwiczyc bieg na 100m. Moj kierowca zasypial na siedzaco. Musialam do niego "nadawac" przez cala droge, bo gdy przestawalam, oczy momentalnie mu sie zamykaly. I tak przez jakies 3 godziny.
Dopiero w Alice Springs dowiedzialam sie, jaki naprawde dystans dzieli to miasto od Ayers Rock. Bylam przekonana, ze nie moze to byc odleglosc wieksza niz 100km. Kilku Australijczykow mowilo mi to samo. W koncu Alice Springs to baza wypadowa do Uluru. Okazalo sie, ze bardziej mylic sie nie moglam, bo dystans pomiedzy nimi to... 500km!
 Spedzilam caly dzien na stacji benzynowej, szukajac transportu do "mojej" skaly. Nikt w ciagu dnia nie ruszal. Spotkalam tez pare Brytyjczykow, ktorzy przegapili swoj lot do Adelaide i teraz planowali jechac stopem jak ja. Ktos mi powiedzial, ze po 18tej bedzie jechal jakis kierowca w moja strone. Brytyjczycy przestrzegli mnie przed muchami. Jak mialo sie pozniej okazac, mieli racje. Obszar Ayers Rock to w sumie pustynio-sawanna. Jest tam niewiarygodnie sucho (10% wilgotnosci), wiec muchom chce sie pic. Proboja wiec wejsc we wszystkie twoje wilgotne obszary - uszy, oczy, usta, nos... Dostalam od brytyjskiej pary siatke ochronna na twarz, ktora okazala sie niezwykle przydatna.
Po 18tej udalo mi sie znalezc kierowce, ktory jechal do Skaly. Jechalismy przez wiekszosc nocy. O 6 rano wysadzil mnie w "bazie".
Musialam znalezc zakwaterowanie - im taniej, tym lepiej. Po calym miasteczku krazyl darmowy autobus, ktory zatrzymywal sie przy kazdym osrodku. Po dwoch godzinach "obczajania" zdecydowalam sie na pole namiotowe. Dostalam naklejke na namiot, ze niby nocleg wazny na ta konnkretna noc. Wiedzialam, ze zasoby portfela powoli zaczynaly mi sie kurczyc, wiec poszlam do lokalnej biblioteki zaczerpnac informacji odnosnie mozliwosci pracy. Od zlozenia CV do oferty pracy minalby jednak co najmniej tydzien lub dwa, wiec zrezygnowalam. Nie mialam tyle czasu, a noclegi w Uluru byly nieprzyzwoicie drogie - nawet na polu namiotowym. 
Pierwszy dzien minal mi na zakupach, praniu, rozbijaniu namiotu itp.
Nastepnego dnia wstalam wczesnie. Szybko sie zebralam i poszlam na droge lapac stopa - do samej Wielkiej Skaly. Zatrzymala sie rodzinka Australijczykow z Melbourne. Przy wejsciu na teren Parku Narodowego Uluru i Kata Tjuta wykupilam bilet. Mial byc wazny przez 3 dni. Najpierw, wraz z rodzinka, zwiedzilismy centrum kultury Aborygenow. Nastepnie pozegnalam sie i ruszylam w samotna wedrowke, na okolo skaly. Ponad 10km, w 38 stopniach Celsjusza w cieniu. Mialam ze soba 4 litry wody, ktore uzupelnialam przy kazdej stacji wodopoju. Tamtego dnia musialam wypic z 8 litrow. Poniewaz szlam przed poludniem, gdy robil sie najwiekszy upal, nie spotkalam wielu ludzi na trasie. Spacer byl bardzo przyjemny, niemal oczyszczajacy. Ptaki, szum traw i drzew. Tylko te muchy nie dawaly spokoju. Skala z kazdej strony miala inne formacje. Robila wrazenie. Dowiedzialam sie, ze mozna wspiac sie na jej szczyt, ale sciezka jest tylko otwarta miedzy 6 a 8 rano. Potem robi sie zbyt goraco.
Popoludniem zlapalam okazje do punktu widokowego na zachod slonca. W ciagu moze 10 minut jazdy w przyczepie kempingowej bez okien zdazylam poczuc sie jak w saunie. Struzki potu kapaly mi z czola, rak i nog. Gdy zostalam "wyrzucona" w punkcie widokowym, bylo chyba okolo 15tej, czyli mialam dobrych kilka godzin do zachodu slonca. Zadnej lawki, cienia, tylko ja, parkingowy asfalt i slonce. Stwierdzilam, ze poczytam sobie ksiazke (Into the Wild). Co jakis czas wstawalam i robilam zdjecia. Po paru godzinach na parkingu zrobilo sie tloczno. Slonce nie zachodzilo przed nami, tylko za nami, nadajac skale inne barwy niemal w kazdej minucie. To byl magiczny moment. I niezapomniany dzien.
Nastepnego dnia udalam sie do Kata Tjuta, czyli formacji skalnej na terenie tego samego parku narodowego, oddalonej od Ayers Rock o jakies 45min jazdy samochodem. Trudno mi to opisac, ale Olgi, bo tak je nazywaja Australijczycy, zrobily na mnie niemal wieksze wrazenie od Ayers Rock. Moglam sie przejsc szlakiem miedzy skalami, ktorych ksztalty i kolor tylko natura mogla stworzyc. Znowu nie napotkalam duzo ludzi, bo bylam tam wczesnym popoludniem. Lapanie stopa w drodze powrotnej okazalo sie nielatwe - wszystkie mijajace mnie pojazdy to byly zorganizowane grupy turystow. Szlam wzdluz drogi i liczylam na to, ze w koncu ktos sie zatrzyma. I tak bylo. Zabral mnie Holender o imieniu Marcel, bardzo sympatyczny facet. Przed nim jechal jego kolega, na motorze. Podrozowali razem - Marcel wiozl wszystkie rzeczy w aucie, a jego kumpel smigal motocyklem. Razem z nimi ponownie obejrzalam Uluru o zachodzie slonca, po czym Marcel zawiozl mnie na moje pole namiotowe.  
 3 dni minely mi bardzo szybko. Chetnie bym tu jeszcze zostala, ale konczyla mi sie australijska waluta, a najblizszy kantor byl w Alice Springs. Czyli jakies 500km dalej. Przy sniadaniu ostatniego dnia poznalam pare - on z Darwin w Australii, ona z Bali w Indonezji. Zaproponowali, ze zawioza mnie do Alice Springs - "bo im po drodze". To byla najdluzsza wycieczka do banku jaka kiedykolwiek wykonalam. Jedno konkretne zdanie utkwilo mi w pamieci z tamtego dnia w podrozy. Australijczyk z Darwin stwierdzil, ze "on to by nie poszedl sie kapac, gdyby na dworze bylo 25 stopni Celsjusza. To za zimno!" Hehe co na to "morsy" w Polsce?
 
ENGLISH:
 When my driver Simon dropped me off on the outskirts of Tennant Creek, I quickly stopped a huge truck (called road train) to Alice Springs. Running from the end to the beginning of it I had the opportunity to practice at 100m run. My driver was falling asleep sitting. I had to talk all the way through, because when I stopped, his eyes momentarily closed. And so I did for about 3 hours.
Only in Alice Springs I learned what really divides the distance from the city to Ayers Rock. I was convinced that it can not be a distance greater than 100km. Several Australians have told me the same thing. In the end of the Alice Springs seemed  to be Uluru base. It turned out  I could not be any wronger, because the distance between them is ... 500km!
 I spent all day at a gas station, searching for transport to the "my" rock. No one did move during the day. I also met the British couple who missed their flight to Adelaide and now were planning hitchhike down there  like me. Someone told me that after 6pm would be some driver traveling in the direction I desired. The Britons warned me against flies. It turned out that they were right. Ayers Rock is an area in total desert-savanna style. It`s incredibly dry out there (10% humidity), so the flies are thirsty. Therefore they try to enter all your wet areas - ears, eyes, mouth, nose ... I got from the British pair a protective net on the face, which turned out to be extremely useful.
After 6pm I managed to find a driver who was traveling to the Rock. We traveled through most of the night. At about 6 in the morning he droppend me in the "base".
I had to find accommodation - the cheaper the better. I was circling around the town on a free bus, which stopped at each resort. After two hours of checking out I chose a campsite. I got a sticker on the tent, which was saying accommodation was valid for that night. I knew that the resources of my wallet slowly  began to shrink, so I went to the local library to obtain information regarding the possibility of work.Since submitting a resume to the job would have been at least a week or two, I resigned. I had not much time, and accommodation in Uluru were extremely expensive - even as for the campsite.
The first day passed by doing grocery shopping, washing, pitching up the tent, etc. I rose early the next day. I gathered myself together quickly and I went on the road hitchhike - to the Rock. Is stopped a family of Australians from Melbourne. At the entrance into the National Park and Uluru Kata Tjuta I bought a ticket. It was to be valid for 3 days. First, with the family, we visited the Aboriginal Cultural Centre.Then I said goodbye to them and headed on a lonely journey, all around the Rock. More than 10km, at 38 degrees Celsius in the shade. I had with me 4 liters of water, which I refilled at each water station. That day I must have drunk about 8 liters or so. Because I went for that wander before noon, when the temperature was at the largest heat, not many people I met along the way. The walk was very pleasant, almost cathartic. Birds,  grasses and trees. Only those flies gave me no peace. The rock on each side had different formations. It was impressive. I learned that you can climb to its summit, but the path is only open between 6 and 8 in the morning. Then it gets too hot.
I managed to catch an afternoon ride to a spot at sunset. Within 10 minutes in a caravan with no windows I managed to feel like in a sauna. Trickle of sweat dripped from my forehead, hands and legs. When I was dropped off at the view point, it was probably about 3pm, thus I had a good few hours to sunset. There was no benches, shade, just me, asphalt of the car park and sun. I decided to read a book I took with me (Into the Wild). From time to time I got up and took pictures. After a few hours the car park became crowded. Sun did not set in front of us, only behind us, giving the rock different colours almost every minute. It was a magical moment. And a memorable day.
On the next day I went to Kata Tjuta, the rock formation within the same national park, 45min drive away from Ayers Rock. I find it hard to describe, but Olgas, as Australians call them, made me almost more impressed than the Ayers Rock. I was able to go trail between the rocks, whose shapes and colors only nature could create. Again, I did not meet a lot of people because I was there in early afternoon. Getting a ride on the way back proved difficult - all the vehicles that passed me were organized groups of tourists. I walked along the way and I counted that in the end of the day someone would stop. And so it was. The Dutchman whose name was Marcel stopped for me, a very likable guy. Before him, his colleague was traveling on a motorbike. They traveled together - Marcel was carrying all the stuff in the car and his buddy driving the motorbike. Together with them I saw again Uluru at sunset, and afterwards Marcel took me to my campsite.
 3 days had passed me very quickly. I would gladly have stayed for longer there, but I was running out of Australian currency, and the closest currency exchange was in Alice Springs, thus 500km away. At breakfast on the last day I met a couple - he was from Darwin in Australia, she was from Bali in Indonesia. They offered to drive me to Alice Springs - "because it`s on my way anyway." It was the longest trip to a bank I have ever done. One particular sentence got stuck in my memory from that day. The Australian from Darwin stated that "he would not go to swim if was 25 degrees Celsius outside. It's too cold!" Hehe talking about cold, Polish people?
 
   
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