The cultural capital of Indonesia

Trip Start Jan 22, 2010
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Trip End Mar 22, 2010


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Where I stayed
Kikie`s family house

Flag of Indonesia  , Java,
Monday, January 25, 2010

ENGLISH:


After the short, however crazy and intense stay in Malaysia, I was dreaming to get a rest. My flight from Yogyakarta to Kuala Lumpur was supposed to last about 2,5 hours. The stewards were directing us to the planes – as for 5am there were plenty of them there, ready for departure. I sat down on my seat, a little moment later on an Asian guy sat beside me. He looked at me that strange way, as if I took a toy away from him. From the corner of my eye I looked at his ticket… and then I realized that the guy had exactly the same seat number as I did! I tried to explain to him, that he was on a wrong plane, that this plane was going to Yogyakarta, and on his ticket was written Singapore I think. "You are on a wrong plane darling, this plane is going to Jogjakarta!" – I was trying to convince him a few times repeating the same thing, but he seemed to not understand. Eventually somebody from the seat in front of me joined the discussion and said: “No, this plane IS going to Singapore and YOU are on a wrong plane”… I got sweaty. I managed to gather my things together in an express speed and jumped off the plane. I found out that the plane going to Jogjakarta was standing right next to the one to Singapore.In my head  I was swearing at the steward that had  given me wrong directions and nearly made me end up in Singapore! 

The airport in Jogja is pretty small. You can get your visa right upon the arrival. It costs 10$ for up to 7 days stay and 25$ for stay in between 8 up to 30 days. If you`d like to stay in Indonesia for longer than that, you`d have to get the visa through the embassy in your country,  before arriving to Indonesia. My stay was supposed to last exactly 8 days. Kikie greeted me with her famous “1-million-dollar-smile” and a warm hug. The sky was cloudy, but it was humid as if in hell. We drove to her grandma`s house in Kikie`s Mercedes Benz `84. As soon as I managed to drop my backpack off in her room, Kikie had to run to her classes. She wrote me how to ask her grandma in Indonesian language (the actual name is bahasa) to order me a cab – just in case I`d like to take a tour around the city. I assured Kikie it that it wouldn`t be necessary, as I was planning to spend that day sleeping over the 48-hour journey. In fact I woke up after having slept 10h straight, just because I heard Kikie and her friends giggling in the other room.

That`s how I spent my first a few days in Indonesia. While Kiki was at uni, I was sleeping/reading a book/talking to Kikie`s grandma – Eyang.  She is such a sweet lady! All her English was “Are you hungry?”, except for that she was fluent in… Dutch (when she was young, Indonesia still had been the Netherlands colony). Unfortunately, I don`t speak any Dutch. However we still managed to communicate with each other – either using hands gestures, or e.g. showing pictures.

One day grandma Eyang told me that she had ordered a taxi and that she wanted me to come along with her. For a while I was waiting to hear the engine`s sound but nothing like that happened. At some point grandma Eyang called me to come and announced that the cab was already waiting. I looked through the window at the front gate, but couldn`t see any car there. When I went outside, I understood why – our “cab” was actually a litter. Some sort of a basket attached to a bike. The bike`s rider helped me to take my seat next to Eyang. Grandma Eyang must have been happy, as she was patting my hand every now and then.  And although the whole trip was about going to and returning from the bank, I reckon Eyang had as much fun as I did.

The afternoons and evenings I used to spend with Kiki. We met onboard the Brilliance of the Seas. Both of us were the ship`s photographers. Kiki is one of the most joyful and funniest people I ever met! A happy child with a sould of an angel. We used to have conversations I probably wouldn`t have had with anybody else onboard the ship. And here, in Indonesia, again we had time to catch up and spend time together. Kiki tried to fill it upfor me as much as she could. We used to spend evenings either going to a local market, or watching an open air theatre game… Everywhere we went, I used to make some kind of tourism attraction for the locals. Yogyakarta is a specific city indeed – known as a cultural capital of Indonesia, but you don`t see too many “boole” (white people). A view of a natural blonde girl with skin white as milk, is not a common thing out there. That`s why many of the locals wanted to take pictures with me. The first guy that asked me for a picture with him, did it in quite a bizzare way: “Can I take a picture? With you?” “With me? But why?” “For my collection…” “Wwwhaaat? Am I supposed to be your… collection?” “Yyyes…” And then he showed me on his digital camera pictures with different “boole” – white people of both genders. A little bit annoyed and confused, I eventually agreed to take the picture. When I heard the term “collection”, I automatically imagined websites of a certain topic, or maybe youtube… I had to get used to being a “star” or somebody`s , erm, “collection”, because situations as such were happening even a few times a day.

The first a few days flew by quickly. Friday was supposed to be one of the most exciting ones during travels. Firtly we were supposed to go and see the sunrise above the Borobudur temple, then,in the afternoon, we were flying out to the island of dreams – Bali…




POLSKI:


Po moim krotkim, lecz jakze intensywnym i szalonym pobycie w Malezji, marzylam o odpoczynku. Lot z Kuala Lumpur do Yogyakarty w Indonezji mial trwac okolo 2,5 godzin. Stewardzi kierowali nas do samolotow, ktorych stalo, jak na pore 5 rano, wyjatkowo duzo. Usiadlam na moim siedzeniu, za chwile obok mnie znalazl sie jakis Azjata. Popaptrzyl na mnie tak, jakbym mu cos zabrala, zabawke dziecku. Katem oka spojrzalam na jego bilet... I zdalam sobie sprawe, ze ma dokladnie ten sam nr siedzenia, co ja! Zaczelam mu tlumaczyc, ze jest w zlym samolocie, ze ten samolot leci do Jogjakarty, a na jego bilecie widnial zdaje sie Singapur. "Moj drogi, jestes w zlym samolocie, musisz wysiasc! To jest samolot do Jogjakarty!" - probowalam mu wyperswadowac kilka razy, ale on zdawal sie nie rozumiec. W koncu ktos z siedzenia przede mna wlaczyl sie do dyskusji: "Nie, to JEST samolot do Singapuru i to TY jestes w zlym samolocie"... Zrobilo mi sie goraco. Zebralam sie w ekspresowym tempie, wzielam swoje rzeczy i wyskoczylam z samolotu. Okazalo sie, ze samolot do Jogjakarty stal obok tego do Singapuru. Przeklinalam pod nosem stewarda, przez ktorego omal nie wyladowalam w Singapurze!!
Lotnisko w Jogjy (czyt. Dźogdźy) jest malutkie. Wize indonezyjska mozna otrzymac bezposrednio po przylocie i na pobyt do 7miu dni kosztuje 10$, a od 8miu do 30tu dni - 25$. Jesli chce sie zostac w Indonezji powyzej 30tu dni, o wize trzeba sie starac poprzez ambasade, jeszcze przed wylotem.  Moj pobyt mial trwac dokladnie 8 dni. Kiki przywitala mnie ze swoim slynnym “usmiechem za milion dolarow" i cieplym usciskiem. Bylo pochmurno, ale duszno jak szlag. Swoim Mercedesem Benz rocznik `84 zawiozla mnie do domu jej babci. Ledwo zdazylam rzucic plecak w kat jej pokoju, Kikie juz musiala biec na zajecia na uczelni. Napisala mi tylko na kartce, jak mam poprosic w jezyku indonezyjskim (wlasciwa nazwa to bahasa) jej babcie, zeby zamowila mi taksowke - w razie gdybym chciala udac sie na przejazdzke po miescie. Zapewnilam Kiki, ze planuje spedzic dzien na odsypianiu 48h w podrozy i ze nie musi sie o mnie martwic. I faktycznie - obudzilam sie okolo 7 wieczorem, po 10ciu godzinach, tylko dlatego, ze slyszalam smiechy dochodzace z drugiego pokoju. To byli przyjaciele Kiki.
I tak uplynelo mi pierwszych kilka dni w Indonezji. Gdy Kiki byla na uczelni, ja spalam/czytalam ksiazke/ "rozmawialam" z babcia Kiki - Eyang. To taka poczciwa kobiecinka! Jej angielski ograniczal sie do "Are you hungry?" ("Czy jestes glodna?"), poza tym podobno swietnie mowila po...niderlandzku (w czasach jej mlodosci Indonezja byla nadal kolonia holenderska). Niestety ja nie. Ale jakos sie dogadywalysmy - chociazby na migi lub pokazujac sobie zdjecia.
Raz babcia Eyang powiedziala mi, ze zamowila taksowke i ze ja mam razem z nia ta taksowka jechac. Przez jakis czas czekalam, az uslysze na zewnatrz dzwiek silnika, ale nic takiego sie nie wydarzylo. W koncu babcia Eyang zawolala mnie, ze taksowka juz czeka. Wyjrzalam przez okno na brame wyjsciowa - i nie zobaczylam zadnego auta. Dopiero, gdy wyszlam, zrozumialam, ze nasza taksowka miala byc... lektyka :o) Cos w rodzaju koszyko-wozka przytroczonego do roweru. Kierowca roweru pomogl mi usiasc obok babci. Babcia Eyang chyba musiala byc szczesliwa, bo co jakis czas poklepywala mnie delikatnie po rece. I chociaz wycieczka byla "tylko" do banku, mysle, ze babcia miala frajde z tej prejazdzki nie mniejsza niz ja.
Popoludnia i wieczory spedzalam z Kiki. Kiki poznalam na statku Brilliance of the Seas. Obie pracowalysmy w zespole fotografow. Kiki  to jedna z najzabawniejszych i najpogodniejszych istot, jakie znam! Takie, mozna powiedziec, szczesliwe dziecko o duszy aniola. Nieraz rozmawialam z nia o rzeczach, o ktorych nie mialabym odwagi rozmawiac z nikim innym ze statku. I tu, w Indonezji, ponownie mialysmy okazje sie nagadac i spedzic razem czas. Kiki starala mi sie go wypelnic jak tylko mogla. Jednego wieczoru bylysmy na lokalnym jarmarku, innego na przedstawieniu teatru na wolnym powietrzu... Wszedzie, gdzie pojechalysmy, wzbudzalam sensacje. Yogyakarta to specyficzne miasto - niby kulturalna stolica Indonezji, ale nie ma tam duzo "bule" - czyli bialych. Widok naturalnej blondynki o mlecznej skorze nie jest tam czyms powszednim. Dlatego wielu z miejscowych chcialo sobie robic ze mna zdjecia. Pierwszy chlopak, ktory mnie o to poprosil, dosc niefotunnie mnie zagadnal: "Czy moge sobie zrobic z toba zdjecie?" "Ze mna? Ale dlaczego?" "Do mojej kolekcji..." "Cooo? Ja mam byc twoja… kolekcja?!?" "Tttak..." I wtedy pokazal mi na aparacie zdjecia z roznymi "bule" obu plci. Poczatkowo zirytowana i niechetna, zgodzilam sie. Gdy uslyszalam slowo "kolekcja", mimowolnie wyobrazilam sobie strony internetowe o tematyce jednoznacznej, tudziez jakies youtube`y... A potem przyzwyczailam sie do bycia "gwiazda" tudziez "kolekcja", bo takie sytuacje zdarzaly sie nawet kilka razy dziennie.
Pierwszych kilka dni szybko zlecialo. Piatek mial byc jednym z tych najbardziej ekscytujacych w czasie calej mojej wyprawy. Najpierw udawalysmy sie na wschod slonca nad swiatynia Borobudur, a nastepnie, po poludniu, lecialysmy na caly weekend na wyspe marzen - na Bali...:)
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