Ech, da vidam Ohrid, Struga da vidam

Trip Start Jul 07, 2008
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Trip End Aug 05, 2008


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Flag of Macedonia  ,
Wednesday, July 23, 2008

K. Miladinov, "T'ga za jug" (Tęsknota za południem/   Longing for the South), 1860:
English:
If I had an eagle's wings
I would rise and fly on them
To our shores, to our own parts,
To See Stambol, to See Kuku#353;;
And to watch the sunrise: is it
Dim there too, as it is here?

If the sun still rises dimly,
If it meets me there as here,
I'll prepare for further travels,
I shall flee to other shores
Where the sunrise, greets me brightly,
And the sky is sewn with the stars.

It is dark here, dark surrounds me,
Dark for covers all the earth,
Here are frost and snow and ashes,
Blizzards and harsh winds abound,
Fogs all around, the earth is ice,
And in the breast are cold, dark thoughts.

No, I cannot stay here, no;
I cannot upon this frosts.
Give me wings and I will don them;
I will fly to our own shores,
Go once more to our own places,
Go to Ohrid and to Struga.

There the sunrise warms the soul,
The sun gets bright in mountain woods:
Younder gifts in great profusion
Richly spread by nature's power.
See the clear lake stretching white-
Or bluely darkened by the wind, Look you at the plains or mountains:
Beauty' everywhere divine.

To pipe there to my heart's content!
Ah! let the sun set, let me die.

Makedonski:
Orelski krilja kak da si metneh, i v nashi strni da si preletneh
na nashi mesta ja da si idam,
da vidam Stambol, Kukush da vidam,
da vidam dali s'nce i tamo
mrachno ugrevjat kako i vamo.

Ako kak ovde s'nce me sretit;
ako pak mrachno s'nceto svetit, na p't dalechni ja kje se stegnam,
i v drugi str'ni kje si pobegnam,
k'de s'nceto svetlo ugrevjat,
k'de neboto dzvezdi posevjat.

Ovde je mrachno i mrak m'obviva
i temna m'gla zemja pokriva,
mrazoj i snegoj, i pepelnici, silni vetrishcha i vijulici,
okolu m'gli i mrazoj zemni,
a v gr'di studoj, i misli temni.

Ne, ja ne mozham ovde da sedam,
ne, ja ne mozham mrazoj da gledam!
Dajte mi krilja ja da si metnam
i v nashi str'ni da si preletnam;
na nashi mesta ja da si idam, da vidam Ohrid, Struga da vidam.

Tamo zorata greit dushata,
i sn'ce svetlo zajdvit v gorata;
tamo darbite prirodna sila
so s'ta raskosh gi rasturila:
bistro ezero gledash beleit,
i si od vetar sino temneit:
pole poglednish, ili planina,
segde bozheva je hubavina.
Tamo po srce v kaval da sviram,
s'nce da zajdvit, ja da umiram.

POLSKI:
Ten wiersz zacytowal kiedys na zajeciach z Literatury Macedonskiej moj wykladowca - dr Zdravko Stamatoski. Przez 3 lata Pan Doktor mowil nam o swoim ukochanym kraju, a takze o ukochanym miescie - Ohrydzie. W koncu dnia 23 lipca 2008r. postawilam noge na Jego ojczystej ziemi.
O kwatery prywatne w Ohrydzie popytalam w przydworcowych kawiarniach i sklepach. W koncu w spozywczym pani ekspedientka wykonala 1 telefon i... 15 minut pozniej zjawilo sie nasze zbawienie;) Wszedzie, gdzie pytalam, chciano 10 Euro za nocleg od osoby, ewentualnie mogli zejsc z ceny, gdybysmy zostali dluzej niz 1 noc. Ten pan zaproponowal nam 6 Euro/os. za nocleg i jeszcze zawiozl samochodem do domu! Pokoik byl przyjemny i schludny, usytuawany 20 min na piechote od centrum. Gospodarze przemili, lazienka bez rewelacji, ale najwazniejsze, ze z ciepla biezaca woda :D. Do tego kuchnia z pelnym wyposazeniem do naszej dyspozycji.
Nie wiem, jak mysmy to zrobili, ale jak zasnelismy tzw. drzemka o godz. 19tej, tak przebudzilismy sie na chwile przed 23cia i stwierdzilismy, ze nie ma sensu wstawac, wiec... wstalismy nastepnego dnia o 9 rano. 14 godzin snu! Pani domu zrobila mi pyszna kawe, po czym po sniadaniu ruszylismy w koncu na zwiedzanie miasta. Spacerkiem doszlismy do pomnika sw. Klimenta z Ohrydu, a zaraz nieopodal - pomnika Cyryla i Metodego - patronow wszystkich Slowian. Bylam tak podekscytowana, jakbym zobaczyla Ghandiego! Poszlismy wzdluz linii brzegowej jeziora Ohrydzkiego, az do parku i wypozyczalni lodek. Potem w druga strone - pod gore, waskimi uliczkami, wsrod i pieknych, i zapadajacych sie w ruine domow, do kosciola sw. Zofii. Ohryd to miasto bizantyjskich kosciolkow, sa naprawde urocze. Ale najwieksze wrazenie robi bazylika sw. Klemensa. Obecny kosciol stoi tuz przy ruinach pierwszej swiatyni, z IV wieku. Dalej wspielismy sie na twierdze Samuila, z ktorej rozposcieral sie widok na cale miasto i okolice. Gory tutaj sa duzo bardziej zielone i zalesione niz te w Grecji. No i pierwszy raz od dwoch tygodni zobaczylismy deszcz! Poprzedniej nocy przeszla porzadna burza! Schodzac w dol, zajrzelismy jeszcze do starozytnego amfteatru i paru bizantyjskich kosciolkow - cudeniek. Po calym tym zwiedzaniu umieraliśmy z glodu, wiec poszlismy na obiad do jednej z restauracji w centrum. Zaczelo znowu padac. Zanim dotarlismy do domu, bylismy cali mokrzy. Prawdopodobnie dlatego, ze poprzedniej nocy spalismy tak dlugo, tym razem nie moglismy zasnac. Czas umililiśmy sobie, sluchajac muzyki i bitwami na poduszki :o). Spedzilismy w Ohrydzie dwa urocze dni, wypoczelismy i naladowalismy akumulatory energia. Czas bylo ruszac dalej.
ENGLISH:
The poem you can read above, was quoted during the Macedonian Literature class by my tutor - dr Zdravko Stamatoski. For 3 years Dr Stamatoski had been telling us about his beloved country and also about his beloved town - Ohrid. Finally, on the 23rd of July 2008 I put my feet in his mother country.
I asked about the private rooms to let in Ohrid at the restaurants and shops near to the bus station. Eventually at a grocery store the shop-assistant made 1 phone call and... 15 min later on there came our life saver J . Everywhere where I was asking about the accommodation, I was told there wouldn`t be anything cheaper than 10 Euros per night per person, or they might put the price down if we wanted to stay longer than just 1 night. The man that came after the phone call the shop-assistant made, offered to us a room for 6 Euros per night per person and he even drove us by his car to his house! The room was nice and cozy, situated 20 min walking from the centre. Our hosts were super nice people, the bathroom wasn`t too exciting but hey it had a hot running water :D. Additionally we could use the kitchen which had full equipment, too.
I still have no idea how did we do that, but we took a nap around 7pm, woke up before 11pm, decided that there was no point in getting up so... we woke up 9amon the next day. 14 hours of sleep! Our host mum made a delicious coffee for me and, after having a breakfast, we finally made it to the town. We walked to the St Kliment`s monument, and to the St. Ciryl and Methodius monument, Apostles of the Slavs. I was as excited as if I saw Ghandi! We wandered along the Ohrid lake coast line, towards the park and boats rental place. Then we walked in the opposite direction - up a hill, in between narrow streets, among these beautiful and these ruined houses, to the church of Sta Sophia. Ohrid is a city of byzantine churches, they are truly cute. But the most stunning one is the basilica of St. Kliment. The current church stands right next to the ruins of the first temple, from the 4th century. Moving forward, we climbed up the Samuil`s fortress, where from you had a view at the whole city and surroundings. The mountains here are much greener and have much more forests than those ones in Greece. And we saw an actual rain for the first time in two weeks, too! There had been a pretty heavy storm the night before. When walking down the hill, we went to see the ancient amphitheatre and also some byzantine churches, which were marvelous. After all that sightseeing we were starving, thus we went for a dinner to one of the restaurants in the town. It started raining again. Before we got back home, we`d managed to get completely wet. Probably because we`d slept so long the night before, we couldn`t fall sleep this time. We`d listen to music and would have pillow fights instead :o). We spent two lovely days in Ohrid, where we had a nice rest and could charge our batteries with some energy. It was time to move forward.
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