Another world

Trip Start Jul 07, 2008
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Trip End Aug 05, 2008


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Flag of Greece  , Macedonia Region,
Tuesday, July 22, 2008

POLSKI:
Marta jeszcze spala, gdy wychodzilismy rano z jej mieszkania. Wsiedlismy w taksowke i dojechalismy do dworca (3 Euro, w Salonikach sa najtansze taksowki  w calej Europie!). O 8:30 odjezdzal nasz pociag z Salonik do Floriny. Tamze poinformowano nas, ze jedynym sposobem dostania sie do granicy jest taksowka (tym razem chieli 15 Euro za kilka km). Grecy i Macedonczycy musza sie faktycznie szczerze nienawidzic, skoro do granicy nie kursuje zaden autobus. Stwierdzilismy, ze czas powrocic do naszego glownego i ulubionego srodka transportu - autostopa. Idac z plecakami, kierowalismy sie w strone glownej drogi wychodzacej z miasteczka i wtedy zatrabil na nas samochod. Kazano nam wskakiwac do srodka. Dwoch panow jechalo do pubu tuz przy granicy. Przeszlismy ja pieszo. Juz po macedonskiej stronie zabral nas pierwszy samochod, do ktorego zamachalismy i razem z nim dojechalismy do Bitoli. Miasto okazalo sie calkiem spore i zeby sie z niego wydostac, musielismy przejsc ladnych pare kilometrow. Po drodze zdazylam upasc z wycienczenia upalem i prawie rozbic sobie kolano. Tylko ja jestem zdolna do tego, zeby potknac sie o wlasne nogi! Jakas kobieta z pobliskiego baru przyniosla mi od razu szklanke wody, a Marcin mial kpiacy usmieszek na twarzy. "Co ci jest?" - zapytal. "Nic, mam pierwszy dzien okresu i jestem oslabiona". "Gowno mnie to obchodzi, ze masz okres!" - odparl. "A powinno, bo podrozujesz z   k o b i e t a!" - wscieklam sie. Przez chwile milczelismy. Zupelnie nic mi sie nie stalo, ale bylam rozgoryczona. Gdy zbieralismy sie, zeby isc dalej, odparlam mu na cos (juz nie pamietam co) z ironia. "I po co ten sarkazm?" - zapytal. "Dobrze wiesz, po co" - pomyslalam, ale nie wypowiedzialam na glos. Do tego zaczal mnie bolec zoladek. Gdy wyszlismy z miasta, usiadlam pod drzewem i doslownie skrecalo mnie z bolu. Nie wiedzialam co sie dzieje. Nie czekalismy dlugo na stopa, jakies 10 min i Marcin zlapal dostawce zabawek z Ohrydu. "I co ja bym, Marcin, bez ciebie zrobila?" - stwierdzilam, ladujac plecaki do furgonetki. Tym razem on nic nie odpowiedzial. Gdy przebywasz z kims 24h na dobe, konflikty musza sie zdarzyc. Wazna kwestia jest to, zeby zamiast rzucac w siebie miesem (nawet gdy masz ochote w danej chwili ta druga osobe zabic), ale umiec sie pogodzic. Jak do tej pory, droczylismy sie tylko o to, kto ma nosic wode. Mielismy za soba 2 tygodnie wspolnej podrozy i co najmniej jeszcze raz tyle przed soba. Oczywiscie, ze mielismy nawzajem siebie dosc w pewnym momencie, gdyz przebywalismy praktycznie tylko w swoim towarzystwie, non stop. Ale jesli mielismy miec udane wakacje, trzeba bylo umiec ze soba rozmawiac o problemach. Droga do Ohrydu byla dosc dluga, ale prowadzila przez fenomenalnie piekne okolice. I moj bol zoladka prawie zniknal! Przekraczajac granice Macedonii, musielismy sie przestawic z alfabetu greckiego na cyrylice. Juz widac, ze to totalnie inny swiat niz Grecja. Ale tez cholernie sie oboje cieszylismy, ze opuszczamy to panstwo. To bylo moje marzenie zycia, zobaczyc kraj antyku, a nastepnie bizancjum. Myslalam, ze bedzie tam ruina na ruinie, biale domki jak z pocztowek i cudowny folklor. Niestety, rzeczywistosc okazala sie troche inna. Grecy w przeszlosci byli w ciągłym konflikcie z Turkami i innymi sasiadami, bardzo duza czesc kraju zostala zniszczona w czasie II wojny swiatowej. Po niej wzniesiono socjalistyczne budowle, ktore obecnie wciąż kroluja w wielu miastach i wsiach. Poza tym, lipiec to nie jest dobry czas na zwiedzanie tej czesci Europy. Niezemski upal niszczy urok nawet ladniejszych miejsc w Grecji. Jesli mialabym tam wrocic, to na wyspy (Kreta), i to wiosna lub jesienia. Wtedy nadal jest tam bardzo cieplo, ale temperatura nie odbiera ci zmyslow, no i nie musisz przeciskac się miedzy tlumami turystow. Tymczasem dojechalismy do Ohrydu. Bylo tuz po 17tej.

ENGLISH:

Marta was still asleep when we were leaving her flat in the morning. We took a cab and went to the railway station (which by the way cost us 3 Euros, Thessaloniki has the cheapest taxis in Europe!). At 8:30 we were leaving by train for Florina. We were informed that the only way to get to the boarder was taxi (this time they wanted us to pay 15Euros for a few km!). The Greeks and the Macedonians must really hate each other as there isn`t even any bus going to the boarder. We decided to use our favourite and main way of transportation - a hitchhike. While walking with the backpacks, we were beeped by a car and we were told to jump in. Two men were driving to a pub right next to the boarder. We walked through it. Already at the Macedonian side we were taken by the first car that we waved to and we got to Bitola with it. We found the city pretty big, in order to get out of it we had to walk a few km. On the way I managed to fall down from the exhausting heat and nearly smash my knee. Only such a master of disaster as myself could have stumbled my feet against my own feet! A certain woman from a pub nearby brought me a glass of water, and Marcin was wearing a mocking smile on his face. "What`s wrong with you?" - he asked. "Nothing, I`m having a first day of my period and I`m being really weak". "I don`t f***g care that you`re having a period!" - he said. "You should, don`t forget that you`re travelling with a w o m a n!" - I was so mad! We were silent for a little moment. Physically I was alright, but he made me feel embittered. When we were about to go ahead, I replied to him ironically about something (I can`t remember what was that). "What is this sarcasm for?" - he asked. "You know what for" - I thought but never said aloud. Moreover, I got a really bad stomach ache. Once we got off the city, I sat under a tree and started almost shrinking from the pain. I didn`t know what was going on. We didn`t have to wait long for the ride, just about 10 min and Marcin caught a toys deliverer from Ohrid. "What would I have done without you, Marcin?" - I said, when putting our backpacks into the delivery van. This time he wouldn`t answer. When you`re spending 24 hours a day with someone, conflicts must occur. The important thing is to not throw a s**t towards each other (even if you want to kill him at that moment), but be able to bury the hatchet. So far we`d been only teasing each other about who`s gonna carry the water. We`d had 2 weeks of travelling together and at least another two in front of us. Of course we had enough of each other at some stage, as we`d been spending the time almost with each other's company only, non-stop. But if we wanted to have a good holiday, we had to learn to talk about issues. The way to Ohrid was pretty long, but it was going through phenomenally stunning surroundings. And my stomach ache almost disappeared! Crossing the Macedonian boarder, we had to switch from the Greek into Cyrillic alphabet. You can already tell it`s a totally different world than Greece. But also both of us were so happy to leave that country. It was a dream of my life, to see the country of antiquity and then Byzantium. It thought there would be ruins on the ruins, white cottages as if in the postcards and a marvelous folklore. Unfortunately, the reality was the reality. In the past the Greeks were in constant conflict with the Turks and also other neighbors, a huge part of the country was destroyed during the second world war. After the war there were risen up socialism buildings that still dominate in many towns and villages. Apart from this, July is not a good period for visiting this part of Europe. An unbelievable heat damages a charm of even pretty places in Greece. If I wanted to go back there, I`d do  to the islands (Crete), and in the spring or autumn. It`s still really warm out there at that time but the temperature doesn`t kill your senses, moreover you do not have to walk in between millions of tourists. Meanwhile we arrived to Ohrid. It was straight after   5pm.
 
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