Peace at last
Trip Start
Feb 07, 2009
1
9
40
Trip End
Ongoing
Where I stayed
Tanoy Guest House
Luang Prabang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Luang Prabang is the sort of city where I think I could stay forever. It's quiet and peaceful, but has a handful of really nice bars with chill out lounges that actually play good music, a rare commodity for Asian nightlife. Not being accustomed to such a flexible schedule, I realized I'd been packing in activities everyday with one sort of challenge or another - trekking, biking, traveling, etc. My first day in Luang Prabang I nearly finished my book and took 3 catnaps. This was an unheard of luxury I thoroughly enjoyed, along with a movie screening in a bar with foreign art house style films and Western pizza. The satisfaction this gave me was indescribable. You see, I've met many backpackers who actually just 'hang out' in locations for days, weeks on end, drinking, reading, meeting people, etc. but not really doing much else. Though this isn't quite my style, it's fantastic to be able to just totally let go, let the day take you away and let a massage be the most productive activity of your entire day. Blame it on American culture or vacation customs, but I've actually never experienced this before. I enjoyed it so much the next day was also spent wandering, reading, grazing and meeting people.
My week in the city was also filled with 2 trips to some astounding waterfalls just outside town. The water was turquoise blue and chock full of skin rejuvenating minerals, with several tiers of falls and pools to swim in. Given the daytime high temperatures around 33-35 C, this was just what the Dr. ordered. The first trip I elected to undertake on a bicycle, which was a foolish act indeed. My friend Sam agreed to join the exercise excursion (I felt guilty after 2 days of lounging) and off we went for our 32K cycle. About 1/3 of the way in we realized how oppressive the heat was and how many hills there really were. This on top of having drank quite a few Beer Lao the previous night was definitely taking a toll on us. Needless to say, we did not bike home. On my second visit, I gladly jumped in the tuk tuk.
Luang Prabang is full of monks, and many are eager to chat you up when visiting the various wats (temples) in town. I learned about the monk way of life and visited a museum about culture in Laos, also rising at 530am to witness the alms giving ceremony carried out throughout the city each morning. I got some culture in and attended a traditional performance at the Children's Cultural Center, with tribal dances, ceremonies and even a puppet show. I tried all the delicious treats they sell on the street and was excited to start seeing the French Indochina influence with the infusion of bakeries, crepe carts, and baguette vendors in town. Though I haven't been properly sick, I can't say that my stomach has been quite right at any point during the trip. This seems to be the case with most travelers, so we just accept it and move along. I met so many great people in this city as well, with different company nearly every day and night. This city is just where the well-traveled backpacker circuit commences in Laos, so I suppose I'm officially back on that beaten path I initially wanted nothing of. It's good. I am happy.
