Wrapping it up in Raro
Trip Start
Jan 10, 2010
1
3
10
Trip End
Feb 20, 2010
Where I stayed
Rarotonga, Southern Cook Islands, Cook Islands
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Sunday 17th----It is Carolyn's birthday today and we went beach hopping around the island. We really enjoyed the beach at Titikaveka, very calm with a white sandy bottom. Also visited Black Rock to swim, the tide was too low to jump off the rocks but we enjoyed swimming in the pools around them. We were too late for lunch at many of the cafes so grabbed a pizza focaccia at a deli in Muri. After lunch we floated on our air mattresses in Muri lagoon and watched the kite boarders jumping surf and getting launched into the air by gusts of wind. In the evening we cleaned up and went to a restaurant that CJ picked out called The Point. We had a formal dinner and a bottle of wine. Papa Jake, Raro's living guitar/ukulele legend, was the entertainment tonight so of course we had to take advantage and put our dance lessons to work- this was "homework" from our instructor back home. We rumba'd between courses and finished our wine with some east coast swing and a little hustle. Although we were the only couple dancing it was a blast and Papa Jake complimented us on our dancing ability.
Monday 18th----Dean and Trish arrive in Rarotonga and go directly to our place because their checkin isn't until 2pm. We had a nice breakfast poolside and then hooked Dean up with a motorcycle rental and a CI driver's license. Went out snorkling, was choppy and visibility not as good. Brought a loaf of bread in the water to feed the fish, spotted a sting ray and kicked up a flounder that was camoflaged on the bottom. Had lunch at the Maire Nui Garden Cafe in Titikaveka. During lunch we received some education of the various fruit trees and tried some of the ripened fruit- don't remember the names of many of them, except the rose apple which was the size of small plum, hollow except for it's large seeds and tasted like a rose smells- hard to describe. Also had a cashew fruit, snapped the single cashew nut off the fruit first then sucked the juice from the fruit. You can't eat the nut directly from the tree because it has a toxin on the outside that will make your lips swell up. There was a Hash House Harrier run in Muri at 5:30pm that we all attended. The course was a good one- started at one of the hasher's house in Muri, then through fields then up a steep road to a view point- took a group picture then ran back down and through a soccer pitch to the beach, then along the beach and back to the starting point. About 5k. As far as hashes are concerned this one was very tame, it was a "family friendly" hash and they didn't haze us. We had fish and chips for dinner at the Flying Boat, a small outdoor diner.
Tuesday 19th---
Went to the bank today to get a Cook Island 3-dollar bill to add to my foreign currency collection. I believe the cook island note is the only 3 dollar bill in the world. Went to the CITC supermarket to replenish supplies. We tried to get a fishing trip lined up for the afternoon but nothing was available. Trying to get a trip set up for Thursday. We had a burger at Palace Takeway- tasty and affordable. Made a quick stop to Matutu brewing company to fill the 3-liter jug with with pale ale then headed to our place in Muri for drinks and swimming. We made a batch of Ika Mata and grilled up a couple dozen chicken thighs for snacking on the next couple days. The four of us played canasta by the pool until it got dark and called it a night.
Wednesday 20th----
Today we were supposed to go on the cross-island trek with Pa up to the Needle and then down the other side but it rained all last night and early this morning- Pa called to cancel this morning because it was too dangerous going up there. We will see if we can do it later in the week. It has been cooler the past 3 days with some dark clouds and rain showers at night. There has been very little rain in Raro over the past eight months and some folks are suffering for it. No rain for crops and water pressure on some parts of the island is weak. This rainfall is an answered prayer for many on the island and only a slight nuisance for us.
At 9am this morning we found out there was a slot available for fishing with Moko- Dean and I took him up on the offer, it would be just the two of us with captain Moko. The seas were calm and the sun came out around 11. While Dean and I fished, CJ and Trish took a kayak out to one of the nearby islands in Muri lagoon and explored the island. They said they spotted a good variety of fish along the way. Our fishing was very good- 6 yellow fin tuna and 1 Wahoo. The tuna were around 50 lbs each and were decent fighters. The wahoo was brought in without much of a fight. Moko filleted us about 10 lbs of dark red prime yellowfin and we enjoyed some sushimi right there on the spot. We gave out some of the fish to our neighbors at the hotel then spent the afternoon snorkeling at Dean and Trish's place, called the Makalya Palms. It was as good or better than the underwater views in Muri lagoon. There are thousands of fish to swim with and the colors are fantastic. After snorkeling we prepared a delicious dinner of seared yellowfin (very rare) which we dipped in soy and wasabi, accompanied by a salad and seasoned rice. Does not get much better than this, folks.
Thursday 21st----Sore arms from fighting fish yesterday, yikes. This morning we were able to do the Cross Island Hike to the Needle with our guide Pa. He picked us up on the road in front of our hotel and along with Trish, Dean and five others we drove to the start of the trail. Pa is a 70-year-old Cook Islander with blonde dreadlocks and the body of a 30 year old rugby player. He is expert in local plants and medicines, speaks seven languages and is certified in CPR, acupunture and a bunch of other things I don't recall. Our trip up to the Needle rock formation would be number 3,702 for Pa. He is one with nature and is very spiritual, this man will easily surpass 100 years in age. The hike started out easily enough, wide and flat with views of the mountains all around us. Eventually we came to what I thought was a dead end. Pa hacked away a few branches with his machete and exposed an opening... ok now I understand what we are in for, ha! From that point on the trail was narrow, muddy and encased in low jungle canopy until we reached the top. It was slow going- steep and technical- grabbing for roots and rocks, navigating over and under trees that were growing across the path. Along the way Pa tutored us in herbal medicines found on the island, he would pick a handful of leaves and explain that this one is used to treat diabetes or this other one is for cholesterol. Amazing stuff, I would have walked on by completely oblivious to the pharmacy of nature around us. At one point he handed me a small bunch of plant material and told me to chew on it a while. I think it was called the antiseptic plant? It is used to stop coughing. Tasted very refreshing, like mint and cloves and slightly numbing. We made it to the Needle in two hours- it really is a spectacular rock column. We took in the 360 degree views of the island, posed for pictures and then hiked down a bit for some lunch. Pa provided awesome fruit and sandwiches and told stories while we ate. We took a different route down to a waterfall for a quick dip then met the van to take us home. Tonight we are going to eat more of the yellowfin Dean and I caught yesterday and hang out playing cards and drinking Matutu beer.
This will be the last entry for Rarotonga, we head to New Zealand's South Island on Friday night. I have to say that Rarotonga has been a terrific vacation spot and we never got bored the entire two weeks here. Besides the obviously gorgeous beaches and flora of the island, it is very clean and safe to explore. Folks that live here take pride in their island and it shows. So gracious and friendly, we felt very welcomed as guests here. We will miss Raro for sure.
Comments
I'm sorry you're having such a dull time!
Excellent travel log...so jealous. Good pix too.
Your guide looks like an amazing guy.
Happy Bday late, Cj!
What a fabulous experience! Thank you for sharing it with us.
ya, PA rocks!