4 days on Ha'apai Island
Trip Start
Jul 11, 2011
1
12
20
Trip End
Dec 31, 2013
We finally managed a quick Tongan holiday to see what life is like off the mainland. The flight to Ha'apai was wonderful. It isn't until you see Tonga from the air that you can fully appreciate its beauty. The water, the reefs and the islands are all stunning. There are 165 islands in the Kingdom of Tonga (give or take a few depending on the tide), and Jade has started listing all the ones we go to. We're up to 5 so far, so we've a long way to go!
Ha'apai is a stunning chain of islands that is relatively untouched by tourism. We stayed at a lovely place called Matafonoua Lodge, which is right on the tip of one of the main islands. That meant we had beach either side of us and could enjoy the beautiful location regardless of wind or tides. The beach was gorgeous, and we spent a lot of time just relaxing there, as well as enjoying the view from one of the many hammocks scattered around the resort. Ben and the kids went on a snorkeling trip to one of the outer reefs, and then Ben swam back (the kids returned via boat). Jade and I swam / snorkelled out to an island just off the one we were staying on. It was pretty cool hanging out on a totally deserted island by ourselves. Later, Ben and Jade kayaked there as well and went in search of an ancient royal burial site that is on it.
I also managed to do something I've always wanted to do - go horse riding along a beach. Jade and I did this one afternoon, and it was definitely horse riding Tongan style, and an interesting introduction to horse riding for Jade. The reigns were bits of rope, and the "saddle" was a hessian sack. We rode along the beach, across the island (literally through the bush), through the villages (that almost never see tourists) and back to the resort, finishing up with a swim with the horses.
Other than that we simply relaxed around the resort. The kids loved collecting the hermit crabs that were everywhere, and playing with the children of the resort owners (particularly Cooper as they had a 6 year old boy). At night we enjoyed wonderful meals in the restaurant, on large tables, with the rest of the guests. It was like having a dinner party with friends every evening, and the food was amazing (especially the deserts!). One night they lit up a camp fire and we sat around that having a few drinks whilst the kids enjoyed playing on the beach in the dark searching for crabs by torchlight.
However, the highlight of the holiday was definitely swimming with Humpback whales. On our last day there we headed out hoping on a whale watching cruise. Within 15 minutes we spotted our first mother and baby, and within 30 minutes Jade and I were in the water. It's almost the end of the whale swimming season and harder to find opportunities, as the calves are getting bigger and wanting to play around. You can only get in the water with them if both mother and baby are still and resting. Luckily for Jade and I we had just the opportunity, and right next to our boat. We slid on in and watched them resting right in front of us before they dove down and swam underneath us. Ben went in later on in the afternoon and managed to swim with some whales close by, but it wasn't quite as good as Jade and my experience. Even though the swimming was limited, we still saw whales everywhere we looked, and most of them were happily breaching and putting on a great show. At lunch time we pulled up next to an island and enjoyed some wonderful snorkeling, while Jade had fun jumping in off the roof of the boat. Hunter spent most of the day asleep in a little storage hammock that we emptied out and placed him in.
Ha'apai is a stunning chain of islands that is relatively untouched by tourism. We stayed at a lovely place called Matafonoua Lodge, which is right on the tip of one of the main islands. That meant we had beach either side of us and could enjoy the beautiful location regardless of wind or tides. The beach was gorgeous, and we spent a lot of time just relaxing there, as well as enjoying the view from one of the many hammocks scattered around the resort. Ben and the kids went on a snorkeling trip to one of the outer reefs, and then Ben swam back (the kids returned via boat). Jade and I swam / snorkelled out to an island just off the one we were staying on. It was pretty cool hanging out on a totally deserted island by ourselves. Later, Ben and Jade kayaked there as well and went in search of an ancient royal burial site that is on it.
I also managed to do something I've always wanted to do - go horse riding along a beach. Jade and I did this one afternoon, and it was definitely horse riding Tongan style, and an interesting introduction to horse riding for Jade. The reigns were bits of rope, and the "saddle" was a hessian sack. We rode along the beach, across the island (literally through the bush), through the villages (that almost never see tourists) and back to the resort, finishing up with a swim with the horses.
Other than that we simply relaxed around the resort. The kids loved collecting the hermit crabs that were everywhere, and playing with the children of the resort owners (particularly Cooper as they had a 6 year old boy). At night we enjoyed wonderful meals in the restaurant, on large tables, with the rest of the guests. It was like having a dinner party with friends every evening, and the food was amazing (especially the deserts!). One night they lit up a camp fire and we sat around that having a few drinks whilst the kids enjoyed playing on the beach in the dark searching for crabs by torchlight.
However, the highlight of the holiday was definitely swimming with Humpback whales. On our last day there we headed out hoping on a whale watching cruise. Within 15 minutes we spotted our first mother and baby, and within 30 minutes Jade and I were in the water. It's almost the end of the whale swimming season and harder to find opportunities, as the calves are getting bigger and wanting to play around. You can only get in the water with them if both mother and baby are still and resting. Luckily for Jade and I we had just the opportunity, and right next to our boat. We slid on in and watched them resting right in front of us before they dove down and swam underneath us. Ben went in later on in the afternoon and managed to swim with some whales close by, but it wasn't quite as good as Jade and my experience. Even though the swimming was limited, we still saw whales everywhere we looked, and most of them were happily breaching and putting on a great show. At lunch time we pulled up next to an island and enjoyed some wonderful snorkeling, while Jade had fun jumping in off the roof of the boat. Hunter spent most of the day asleep in a little storage hammock that we emptied out and placed him in.



Comments
I've really enjoyed reading your Tonga blogs. I am moving out there in about 6 weeks with my young family and am now quite excited to get out there.
Hi Nicola,
How exciting - it will be great to have a new family here. It's a really small expat community here, so I'll definitely be seeing you soon. If you want to email me I can give you more information about life here. How old are the kids, and what job are you coming over for? Looking forward to seeing in the near future.
Cheers
Belinda
belinda.esler@gmail.com