My first destination was Gunung Kawi, at which, very improbably, I was the only tourist. Next was Tirta Empul, filled with devout Hindu, snap-happy Japanese tourists and me. Finally the very large temple of Pura Semuan Tiga. I was very lucky in that Semuan Tiga was having its birthday celebration ceremony AND it fell on a full moon, meaning the celebration was even bigger. Incredible colours and pageantry. A very rewarding day.
On 04 May I decided to get the hell out of Kuta. A shuttle bus landed my fairly painlessly in Ubud and I checked into Ketut's Place. Incidentally, for those of you using the 2003 Lonely Planet, the Suci Inn no longer exists but the manager from that well-thought of location is Ketut and he still runs a classy show. Ketut's is a family run place with lots of greenery, a sweet pool and a view out the back of a babbling brook. After the crush and dirt of Kuta it seemed ideal. Upon arrival I immediately met Bob Fleming, a fascinating Englishman in his 80's who has travelled to every single country in Asia, many of them multiple times, and many other locales as well. While we waited for the rain to stop we sat on the porch of his room and he regaled me with travel stories and insider expat tips of Asia. Once the rain stopped Ketut gave me directions on the easiest way to see the various Hindu sites and I was off to find my first bemo.