Rocks and waterfalls

Trip Start Feb 06, 2007
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266
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Trip End Jan 14, 2008


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Sunday, November 11, 2007

Sunday November 11th Lencois
Pousada da Fonte served our most decadent breakfast yet. Wait for it. Bread rolls, cheese, ham, small fried doughnut things, rissoles, fried bananas, water melon, papaya, fruit juice, tea and coffee, AND 2 sorts of cake. Normally we can say no to cake for breakfast, but faced with orange cake dripping with chocolate icing how could we not try it ? Luscious.
A local walk not needing a guide is alongside the river Lencois. The river falls down a sloping rock face several hundreds of metres long and down sets of rock steps, with deep pools. Sunday is washing day, so every pool had a group of women hard at it, beating their children's grubby shorts with wooden paddles. Further up a pair of young entrepreneurs told us we needed a guide, it was slippery and dangerous, and they finally cottoned on to the fact that we only had 6 words of Portuguese. There was a big group of Brazilean tourists with a guide, who stopped at every pool, and made so much noise you would have thought there were 1000 of them. We found a path that first went beside the river after it had reached a valley, then when it vanished we had to rock hop. Massive boulders made from conglomerate were in the middle of the river. It must have taken huge water power to get them there. The walk got more and more difficult, as the rocks got bigger with deep pools between. We crawled through a few gaps but by now the morning had fled, the sun was burning us through sunblock, so we retreated for lunch. On the way back we found ourselves in a set of caves formed by house-sized boulders strewn over the hillside, then a bit further down saw a makeshift house with small rocks filling in the gap under the edge of another huge boulder.
When it had cooled down a bit in the late afternoon we headed in the other direction to find another swimming hole, but there was not enough time before dark. We were still full after lunch but nothing will stop Barb trying something new. This time it was a local speciality, acarajÚ. It starts with a fried dumpling made of bean meal, it is cut in half and filled with a veggie brew, chopped tomatoes, something very gooey, and shrimps complete with crunchy shells. Pete looked on in horror.
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