2nd part: the exhumas passage - not bad at all!!
Trip Start Nov 11, 2008
13Trip End Ongoing
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We arrived really early in front of great Inagua, which is the last or the first island of the Bahamas, depending of where you come from !! It's absolutely not like you would imagine the place... Hike, the hurrican which damage Cuba few months ago had here some bad effects too. The cost guards were there to welcome us. They acted very nicely even if they checked each cabin of the boat to be sure we are not drug dealers. Then we anchored beside the too small port and went for a pub and we found a nice one with fresh bahamian lager, awesome !
At the port, we met this crazy dude from quebec who had so much trouble with his boat and Hike, and the cuban coastal guards where he landed to repair and his ex-wife who took all his money...etc. As he said, he got the vaudou on his arse ! (lost in translation) His boat is now kind of scary. It's a pity cause he's going to DR but it would have been deadly and stupid to go with this dude. The day after, at 6.30 am, we were gone, up north.
We still had a great night at the contact of the locals. It was the birthday of someone important enought to cause a good party and free rhum for all!!
That's it, we are in the Exhumas ! every body has in his/her mind the postal card with crystal water and white sand beaches but it's really that way here. There are coralian islands sot hey are a lot more rocky and rough than we can imagine at first. Well, the good point about that is the opportunities to snorkel !! What a great feeling to do so here in one of the best places around the world. On the way, the winds changed for the first time and became western winds instead of the normal trade winds. Important change when it comes to navigate there... cause we were not protected anymore by the reef and islands.
We stop for the night because it can be dangerous to sail by night in the exhumas, somewhere which is called JewFish Cay, from the name of a massive fish (2m50 and more than 300kg). Martine the hostess of the boat for the next 3 months made a hell of a diner, amazing with a couple of bottle of red wine!
Little Farmer cay is the second place we stop in the exhumas and we can say that it's still the real Bahamas. I'll explain. Like in Mathew town (great Inagua), there is a kind of different atmospher, like if people had forgotten about the place. Streets are very large and buildings are separated by bush, even more impressive is the fact that most of them are derelict or not finished. This feeling was stronger in Great Inagua than in little farmer Cay but both have no downtown and absolutely no concentration of more than few people. People there are so friendly that it can be embarassing because you don't know how to react with complet estrangers who behave as you were family. We finally spent two days there because the wind wasn't good at all... right in the nose.
Tonight we had the most beautiful sunset i ever saw ! impossible to describe better than if you imagine a third of the sky red and orange... terrific !!