Sunburnt and Sore: Skiing Faraya Mzaar
Trip Start
Feb 13, 2011
1
10
22
Trip End
Jun 28, 2011
Mazraat Remâssé, Baalbek-Hermel, Lebanon
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
John and I have noticed that we are the ultimate return customers. If we find something we like, we will definitely be back. In Cafe Grande's case, this is the fried kibbeh. On a side note here are a few of our other frequently visited restaurants: www.kabab-ji.com, www.zaatarwzeit.net, www.crepaway.com, www.roadsterdiner.com, www.classicburgerjoint.com
We sat and enjoyed a long lunch while discussing what we would do for the remainder of the weekend. Abruptly we decided we would go back to the apartment, pack an over-night bag, and leave for Faraya Mzaar by 2:30. After lunch we walked back to hotel Albergo, near our apartment, and they assisted us in booking the chalet we had found online. We also called High Taxi to arrange a driver to take us the hour trip. By 4:00 we were in Faraya checking into our ski chalet and having tea with the owner.
Chateau D'eau was a charming ski lodge located in the village of Faraya, just below the ski resort of Mzaar. We originally had found a rate online for $76/night, which turned out to be a false website. When we mentioned this to the owner, he graciously gave us a discount from the $130/night rate to a $100/night rate. This was fantastic, because as budget conscious (and often broke) travelers, we wouldn't have been able to stay the night otherwise.
In the morning, we woke up around 7:00 and enjoyed a complimentary Lebanese breakfast. This consisted of the typical bread, labneh (a yogurt-like spread), eggs, raw vegetables, and loads of basil. After having breakfast, we hopped in a taxi to take us to get our gear then to the slopes. We stopped at Mzaar Sport, where a friendly couple fitted us for boots (L.L. 10,000), snow boards (L.L. 10,000), pants (L.L. 7,000), jackets (L.L. 7,000), and gloves (L.L. 4,000). We were totally outfitted in quality gear for about $25 USD, something unheard of in the States. We got our lift tickets for $35, which is also about a third of the cost in the U.S.
We got an early start, because we knew the snow would be melting by the early afternoon. The snow conditions were remarkable considering we were skiing in April and only 45 minutes from the Mediterranean. It was a bit icy in the morning and slushy towards the afternoon, but who can complain when you're skiing in 50 degree weather?
The mountains were beautiful. They are nothing like the Rockies that John and I are so used to. Because of the arid climate, there is no vegetation on the mountain. This means. similar to the Andes, there are no trees between the ski trails or on the boundaries. The mountain becomes one big snow covered slope. The resort ropes off the groomed ski trails, but without ropes you would have no idea where the trail started or ended. This was actually a little unnerving, as we were basically the only ones on the mountain due to it being the last week of the season.
As two of the few people skiing that day, John and I did not have to wait in a single lift line. In fact, usually we would be the only people on the entire lift. We don't ski together, because of different skill levels, and I often found myself the only person on a lift and the only person skiing the run. This was incredible, serene, and peaceful.
Being alone in such incredible nature gives you peace at mind and allows you to appreciate your surroundings. While snowboarding, something that gives me such joy, I could not have asked for a better environment. It was blissful. On the other hand, it also made me a little nervous. Considering my brother just broke his tibia snowboarding in Colorado, I couldn't help but think, "who is going to find me when I break my leg?" or "Are there mountain lions around here?"and even "I have no idea where I'm going and the trails are not well marked, so what happens when I get lost?" Luckily, none of the above happened, and it was a perfect day.
We exhausted ourselves by early afternoon, and went for lunch at the base. We then taxied back to return our gear and check out of our hotel. At 3:30 our driver came to take us back to Beirut and we were on the Mediterranean Coast by 4:15. We easily could have done the world famous Lebanese ski and swim in the same day, but none of the beach clubs are open yet and we don't have a car to make it to the public beaches outside of Beirut.
It was a wonderful whirlwind of a ski trip, low cost and high fun, just the way we like it. John's friend from childhood, who is living in Turkey on a Full-bright Fellowship, is visiting us in Beirut for the coming week. I'm excited to play tour guide of my new temporary home, it will be a fun-filled week. Anis mentioned he wants to take us back to the South for the weekend, or maybe to Baalbek. We'll see!
Comments
Aubrey and John-What a wonderful weekend. Thank you for sharing it with us. How is the language coming along? Are you still taking class?Love you
What fun!! It sounds lovely.