Learning to Surf - Day One
Trip Start Apr 26, 2010
169Trip End Dec 02, 2010
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Where I stayed
Just as we were getting into our wetsuits – provided of course – it started to rain and it was really quite chilly, especially with the wind. Not ideal, but we were going to get wet anyway. After a wee bit of, oh my god this is cold, but did a quick warm up and began body surfing to start with – so straight away we were into the water. To be fair, it was initially a little nippy but not freezing and I didn’t get cold all day, so that was really good
The day worked out like this. A surf lesson between 11 and 1, lunch for two hours and another surf lesson between 3 and 5 – well around that anyway. The first day of surf lessons were good. We learnt the three positions to getting up on the board. Ashley managed to get up on the first day which was really cool, I still haven’t quite got the hang of it yet, but maybe tomorrow.
Doing the actual surfing isn’t really tiring, its dragging the board out into the waves that is tiring, and when the wind is pushing the board around, it becomes really heaving. But after day one, I felt ok, a little frustrated as I can feel what Im doing wrong, just have to get the body to do it automatically I think.
By the time we got back to Lagos, we were quite tired and grabbed a cooked chicken and salad for dinner, ready for the next day. They also mentioned that we could stay in the surf camp in their bunk rooms if we wanted. It was a little more expensive than our cheap camping ground, but thought it would be good to be with some more people, have a bed to sleep in, and also a kitchen to cook in too, so tomorrow morning we are going to pack up our stuff and follow the van in the morning to surf camp. That and its only a 20 minute drive from there to the surf in the morning too – ooh and we get breakfast, yum!