Jaunting Around Johor Bahru

  Kampong Kebun Teh, Johor, Malaysia
Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Johor Bahru or JB, as it is more popularly known, surprised me with the richness of its history and culture as evidenced by the historical buildings and impressive architecture dotting the entire metropolis — well preserved amidst the onslaught of modernization that's fast changing its landscape.

I, along with seven other batch mates, had the chance to visit this city of about 1.8 million people courtesy of a twinning agreement which my company had inked with a Malaysian utility operating in JB.

Formerly known as Tanjung Puteri, this capital of Johor State is one of the three highly urbanized centers in West Malaysia (Peninsular Malaysia), along with Kuala Lumpur and George Town in Penang. Separated from Singapore by the Straits of Johor, JB is less than an hour away from the city-state by car, bus or motorcycle, but this could stretch to as much as two hours if the traffic at the causeway linking the two is heavy.

It was interesting to learn that many residents of Johor work in Singapore because of the high-paying jobs available there. Singaporeans, on the other hand, come to JB for business, shopping and entertainment, with a significant number putting up their residences, businesses and factories there, taking advantage of the stronger Singaporean currency. The daily traffic congestions at the immigration checkpoints attest to the increasing number of Malaysian workers in the city-state as well as the growing influx of Singaporeans into Johor for business, entertainment and leisure.

It may not yet have the sophistication that neighboring Singapore is known for, but Johor Bahru still has the conservatism that is fast disappearing in cosmopolitan Kuala Lumpur where customary lifestyles and contemporary points-of-view seemed to blend harmoniously into the bustling landscape.

In the capital, the sight of Chinese girls clad in mini-skirts and short shorts walking alongside Muslim women wearing headscarves and shapeless gowns barely creates a commotion. I guess that scene would have caused some stir in JB, as the city seems to be more traditional and conservative than Kuala Lumpur.

Architecturally, JB is a typical Islamic city whose character shines through the many mosques, shrines and parks dotting its cityscape. One structure there that fascinated me was the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque, which can accommodate some 2,000 worshippers. Considered as one of the most beautiful old mosques in Malaysia, this edifice is perched on top of a hill in downtown JB, overlooking the Straits of Johor and neighboring Singapore. It's a mixture of various architectural styles, but principally colonial, with its minarets resembling British watchtowers. Unfortunately, we didn't have the chance to see the place at close range.

Driving along Jalan Tun Dr. Ismail one night, we saw the Sultan Abu Bakar Grand Palace, the former residence of the royal family. Considered as one of the oldest buildings in Johor, it has a modern architecture with striking Anglo-Malay influences and is being used mainly for state ceremonies and official functions. It has also been turned into a museum where the public can view the treasures, works of art, antiquities and furniture belonging to the royal family as well historical relics of the Sultanate of Johor.

A few meters away from the royal palace, we stumbled upon a sprawling park known as Dataran Bandaraya (City Square), where public events like parades and stage shows are usually held. The square has a large stage, a minaret, a fountain and a very large clock tower. We had a grand time taking pictures at the square.

Another interesting episode of our trip to JB was the visit to the Sultan Ibrahim Building, whose massive structure nestled on Bukit Timbalan overshadows other nearby high-rise buildings in the city. Its combination of colonial and Malay architecture with its Saracenic design and tower makes it one of JB's important landmarks. Reaching the top of the ten-storey building, we were treated to a sweeping view of the city as well as Singapore. At present, the building houses several government offices, including that of the State Secretariat.

One of the more prominent developments we noticed during our tour of the city is Danga Bay, a thriving waterfront along the coasts of Johor Bahru facing the Straits of Johor and overlooking Singapore. This recreational park was designed to be a city within the city, featuring a residential area, a business and financial center, shopping and leisure facilities. Walking around the complex, we found a mall, a cultural center, several restaurants, an entertainment and amusement park, and a botanical garden and zoo, among others. The best sunsets in the city can be viewed at Danga Bay.

Looking back, the visit to JB altered my perception of Malaysia, helping me let go of my hang-ups. It also made me realize there's so much more to discover there. Now, I'm looking forward to my next sojourn to Malaysia, perhaps to Johor Bahru again, or to some other city like Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, George Town, and Kota Kinabalu.