Surfs up Eggsy's down
Trip Start Feb 26, 2010
371Trip End Feb 26, 2011
Map your own trip!
Show trip route
Where I stayed
We started off by being greeted by our instructors and two South Korean girls, a great small group although the Korean girls might have weighed about 7 stone between the two of them
I managed to get up on the second wave which thrilled me, and the Korean girls were up by the 5th or 6th wave. I looked across to see how the Lady was doing and saw a face of both panic and fury
The next wave we were all waiting in the deeper water as Erica had a brief “chat” with the instructor. I was getting a little worried I would never be forgiven for ever ‘forcing’ her to do this. The next wave came in and she was up on her feet on the board to the whoops and cheers of the instructor and the group (and I think I also heard one from the camera man on the shore who is there to try and get a picture of everyone stood up!). For me this was great Erica had done it I was really proud of her for achieving something she had been so unsure about.... For Erica this meant another thing, back to the shore, lesson and surfing career over.....
After a break the nut-job instructor got out on one of the boards and started doing headstands, handstands and the like which was crazy to watch. He then came ashore and told me I was ready to get out deep into the really big waves. After the first attempt I dropped maybe 8 feet vertically where the nose of the board went straight into the water I was smashed onto the board and buried underwater for what seemed like ages but in reality was probably only about 20 – 30 seconds but I was winded and in real pain. Having failed I got back on the board and started to paddle back out. My ribs were really hurting and it seemed to affect my paddling ability but I continued regardless. After two more serious wipeouts I was done for. My ribs were really hurting and I had started to lose all confidence. It was time for me to find Lady E and head back.
We then retired back to the room to reflect on the aches and pains of our first day in the big waves. I had a great day, Erica hated her day but I couldn’t wait for tomorrow to get a shorter better board and see how quickly I could improve. I seriously upset another shop keeper who after starting his price at about 15 pounds for a pair of shades ended up selling them to me for just under a pound, he snatched the money out of my hands and refused to say goodbye, well I didn’t force him to accept, the thing with stalls in Bali are they are desperate to sell you things so it’s an easy play, offer a ridiculous figure of about 40p at which point they either laugh or throw you out of the shop. Don’t really move your offer but then say you really want them but won’t pay more than 60p, they laugh again or throw you out. If they laugh walk off and they then start to shout after you seriously reducing the price. You casually wander back and offer 60% of their lowest offer (after doing the tried and tested Stephenson count out your final offer and tell them that is all you have take it or leave it). Erica as always walked away ashamed.
We then went to end our day in the local surfers bar called ‘Tubes’ and grab a beer to numb the pain which was getting worse and worse. We skyped my mum and Dad and headed out for tea. We managed to check in with Vic and see baby Ellie nearly walking before bed (with a couple of Mojitos). We were knackered.