The most remote place on earth.....

Trip Start Feb 26, 2010
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Trip End Feb 26, 2011


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Where I stayed
Gaya's Gueasthouse in a Gur

Flag of Mongolia  , South Hangay,
Thursday, March 11, 2010

Awoke to a small boy (Gana) in our Gur bringing us our breakfast of bread and jam and biscuits, thankfully I had crawled back into my sleeping bag a few hours after the fire!  Despite being told the day previous that we would be leaving at 11am Gana left the tray and informed us that the taxi was outside waiting for us.  It had been quite an experience our first night in a Gur and never ones to take the easy route we had already signed ourselves up to two more nights of this torture, but in an even colder location!!!

We decided to take a slight detour on the way back to Mr Kim's to take in the tourist attractions of 'Turtle Rock', pretty much a rock that looks like a turtle (see what you guys are all missing out on), and a huge statue of the man himself, Gengis Khan (which Andrew seemed strangely attracted to). 

We then set off for Karakorum and endured about 9 hours drive through some of the most remote scenery on earth, it was incredible. Mongolia is the least populated country on earth (allthough Greenland and Faroe Islands are less densly populated they are owned by Denmark and GB respectively (this is AJ writing again now as Erica's geography and factual points are weak to say the least). Take that into account then bear in mind that 66% of Mongolia's population live in Ulan Bator and you are starting to get the picture. We drove for about 3 hours then the road disappeared and we just drove across the desert, we saw very few cars. At one point we stopped to look at a wild heard of Camels, then out of nowhere a horse appeared with a scary man on it so we jumped in the car and off we went again. The scenery was breathtaking and so many plains filled with herds and / or wild herds of horses, camels, cows sheep etc.

At about 3pm we pulled over at a cafe, it was just like the scene from the film Casino where they meet up in the desert. Just the dust of tire tracks when a car pulled up and nothing else in viewing distance. Amazingly there were about 4 tables already full. Every single person had full Mongolian dress on and the driver sat us down at a table ordered something then got up and left. When I say everybody stopped eating and talking and just stared at us I'm not joking. We watied for lunch then got a rather huge and delicious meal of meat with a fried egg on top and some grated carrots etc. We sat and ate while everybody still just stared at us. At most points they were simply open mouthed. It was all a little uncomfortable and although we tried not to look back it was very very difficult. The stares were solely in my direction as well, perhaps its just beauty but I suspect it was the red beard.

We set off again and continued the drive, found a road again and arrived at Karakorum as it was going dark. To say it was cold here was an understatement however the Ger was warm and amazingly it had .... a lightbulb. We dined on mutton dumplings and some veg ones given to us by Gaya (our new host). Not as remote as the first Ger, she had two Gers near her house but we were the only ones that stayed there. Due to Erica's winging the first night about it was too hot we agreed I would be able to sleep and we wouldn't worry about the fire (bear in mind by the time I got back in my bag on night one and got warm again it was time to 'relight my fire'. I slept well but got woken by Erica at about 3am who this time thought she was developing pneumonia it was that cold. I managed to 'relight my fire baby' but we woke at 5:30ish freezing again.

Still one more Ger night ahead of us, while I absolutely loved it I couldnt sleep well all night as I was constantly concerned that Erica would be too hot / cold and the fire needed attending. 
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Comments

Gregg on

I thought that ur training at home of only keeping one room warm at a time (always the lounge) would have stood you in good stead for keeping a little fire going.......must try harder!!!!

Alex on

ah guys, it's quite fun to read your blog but you are not really the best socializing people right? How can you look away if everyone looks at you? You should instead smile and maybe say something like "Hello" in Mongolian.. break the ice.. you guys act like you're on a package tour.

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