New York - Re-acclimatizing To Civilisation
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2003
1
92
Trip End
Apr 21, 2004
We had an overnight flight to JFK and so arrived at around 9 am, local time. I had arranged to stay with friends Pat and Max, who I hadn't seen for a few years, and so called them up as soon as we had cleared immigration and customs (eventually managing to gain entry past the 'jobsworth' immigration officer with a face like a smacked backside!). Taking the airport shuttle-bus, we made the short journey to Grand Central Station (an impressive edifice) and met Pat by the entrance. We jumped into a yellow cab and were soon deposited at the apartment block on the Upper Eastside. The lift stopped 38 floors up, and as we chatted, we admired the amazing views over Manhattan and the East River. Max was almost instantly called back to work, so we spent the morning talking with Pat and enjoying being in a 'home' for the first time in several months!
Once we had eaten, we showered and made ready for our first trip around the 'Big Apple'. Taking the subway, our first port of call was 'Ground Zero', where we met Max and joined hundreds of other people, either paying their respects, or contemplating the terrible events of just over two years ago. A new subway station has now been built by the site, and the area is pretty much clear for development. Some of the surrounding buildings still displaying the signs of damage are shrouded in black netting as well as controversy because their future cannot be decided (it's more cost effective to knock them down and rebuild, but that is seen by some as giving in to the terrorists). After a poignant walk around the area, we left and walked round to Battery Park and looked out to catch our first glimpse of The Statue of Liberty. She was some way off, but it still felt good to be looking at such a world-renowned icon (much like when we were in Sydney, looking at the Opera House).
In the park, we also saw a large golden globe that had been a feature in the World Trade Centre. Originally, the sphere was immaculate, but now it appeared twisted and misshapen, but still intact. The artist/sculptor had agreed that the globe would now serve as a memorial to those who lost their lives in 9/11 and as a symbol of the American spirit - damaged, but still intact.
We wandered along Wall Street and then to Pier 57 where we stopped for some liquid refreshment. After a couple of rounds we caught a cab back to the apartment and enjoyed a few more drinks, spending the afternoon chatting. Refusing to succumb to travel lethargy, we went out for dinner with Pat and Max to the Delta Grill, way across town. We all ate fabulous Cajun meals in the extremely popular restaurant, before walking round to 'Don't Tell Moma' - a bar where the waiters and waitresses take turns to entertain the audience by singing show songs, accompanied by piano. We had an excellent night, drinking steadily as the Broadway wannabies belted out their songs expertly (although I didn't recognise the majority of the music, I was impressed by the professionalism and ability of the singers). We didn't leave the bar until after 3 am, amazed that we were still able to stand (after being awake for so long following our overnight flight, of course!).
Strangely, we were not up too early the following morning, but once dressed, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast of bagels, croissants and cream cheese (you can get whipped Philadelphia in the States). Andrea and I then went for a walk down by the river and through Carl Shultz park (where some scenes from The 25th Hour were shot). We stopped briefly (it would have been all afternoon, had I not dragged Andrea away) at the 'Small Dogs Playground' where New Yorkers bring their tiny pooches to run around and play with others. This may not sound that interesting, but when you see the dogs being carried in designer handbags, zipped up with just their heads poking out, or in papooses, strapped to the chest of their owner, ribbons etc tied to their fur, you can imagine how much amusement we derived from the spectacle.
Heading West, we paid a quick visit to the Guggenheim Museum, before meeting Pat and Max in Central Park. We spent the rest of the afternoon soaking up the sun and watching a game of softball in the 'lungs' of the city - it was absolutely brimming with people due to the pleasant change in the weather. Walking back to the apartment, we were waylaid by The Racoon Bar, and spent an hour or so imbibing and enjoying the atmosphere of a rough and ready New York bar on a Sunday afternoon. Once back, we were treated to a fantastic home-made roast by Pat (it felt like Christmas!) and spent the evening watching films. A somewhat earlier night beckoned!
With both our genial hosts at work on the Monday morning, we helped ourselves to breakfast and then walked across the city and through the park to catch the Circle Line ferry, for a tour around Manhattan Island. We spent the next three hours on the water, enjoying the sights and detailed commentary, really getting a feel for our surroundings, and establishing our bearings. Back at the pier, we walked the short distance past Times Square and onto 5th Avenue, where we met Pat for a coffee on the steps of the National Library. After our refreshment, the three of us conducted our own walking tour of that part of the city, visiting the lobby of the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building and various other Art Deco structures along the way.
That evening, our taste buds were again treated to another delicious home-cooked meal by Pat (I now have the recipe and will be making it upon our return home!). Taking it easy for the night, we all watched 'Love, Honour and Obey' - a superb Brit-flick, and one I'll have to watch again when we return home.
Following a reasonable lie-in, we returned to The Empire State, but this time, went up to the observation area at the top. It was a gloriously clear and sunny day and consequently, we had fantastic views of the entire city. In between jostling for position, we managed to spot a variety of landmarks from our lofty vantage point, recognising some of the places we had already visited, and some that we would still like to see. Following lunch in a typical New York diner with Pat, we made a brief foray into Bloomingdales as Andrea wanted to see the floral exhibit there, but unfortunately (for her) it had ended a couple of days previously. Cramming in as much of the city's main tourist attractions as possible, we sauntered along to the Chrysler Building for a look at the Art Deco interior. It was certainly as impressive as the finely detailed exterior, with patterned marble, a ceiling frieze, and intricate panelling on the 'elevator' doors. Finding it impossible to hail a cab to return to the apartment, the three of us settled for walking all the way back. With leaden feet, we slumped onto the sofa and chilled out for a little over half an hour before changing and walking to the subway station.
We hopped on a train bound for Brooklyn, and once there, found our way to the bridge. We had timed our walk back across to Manhattan to coincide with the sunset and subsequent illumination of the city, and were not disappointed with the scene. Looking across, we saw that the Empire State was lit up in green, with a couple of nearby buildings in pinks and reds, and the Chrysler's dome was a bright white. These all served to draw our eyes into the magical, yet commonplace, panorama of the Manhattan skyline - something I'd always wanted to witness since childhood. This time succeeding in staking our claim on a cab, we zipped round to Pat and Max's local, 'Finnegans Wake', to meet Max for dinner. Continuing the theme of partaking of a few drinks, we enjoyed our meal, then returned to the apartment, where we stayed up talking until 2 am!
For our last day in New York, and in fact the whole trip, we met up with Caroline, one of Pat's 'ex-pat' friends. We wandered around by Central Park, before having coffee and returning to the apartment for a sumptuous fry-up (we were being extremely well-fed!). With neither of us having much energy, Andrea and I decided to take things easy and prepare ourselves for our flight home, later that evening. With a little bit of time to go out and grab some parting gifts for our generous hosts, we had one last look out across the skyscrapers and reflected on our time here. New York is certainly a wonderful city to visit, made all the more enjoyable for us, thanks to the hospitality of Pat and Max, and we'd both definitely love to return, perhaps at Christmas time to immerse ourselves in the festive atmosphere and hopefully walk through a Central Park swathed in a carpet of snow...
...But for now, our travels are over, and we are looking forward to returning home; to catching up with our families and friends; to being able to wear different clothes; to being able to finally take off our packs; to drinking English beer (well, maybe that's just me); to watching familiar tv (especially sport); to start to once again earn money instead of spending it; and to beginning our next adventure of sharing a house together! Don't worry, we won't make you read all about that too!
Dan and Andrea
Once we had eaten, we showered and made ready for our first trip around the 'Big Apple'. Taking the subway, our first port of call was 'Ground Zero', where we met Max and joined hundreds of other people, either paying their respects, or contemplating the terrible events of just over two years ago. A new subway station has now been built by the site, and the area is pretty much clear for development. Some of the surrounding buildings still displaying the signs of damage are shrouded in black netting as well as controversy because their future cannot be decided (it's more cost effective to knock them down and rebuild, but that is seen by some as giving in to the terrorists). After a poignant walk around the area, we left and walked round to Battery Park and looked out to catch our first glimpse of The Statue of Liberty. She was some way off, but it still felt good to be looking at such a world-renowned icon (much like when we were in Sydney, looking at the Opera House).
In the park, we also saw a large golden globe that had been a feature in the World Trade Centre. Originally, the sphere was immaculate, but now it appeared twisted and misshapen, but still intact. The artist/sculptor had agreed that the globe would now serve as a memorial to those who lost their lives in 9/11 and as a symbol of the American spirit - damaged, but still intact.
We wandered along Wall Street and then to Pier 57 where we stopped for some liquid refreshment. After a couple of rounds we caught a cab back to the apartment and enjoyed a few more drinks, spending the afternoon chatting. Refusing to succumb to travel lethargy, we went out for dinner with Pat and Max to the Delta Grill, way across town. We all ate fabulous Cajun meals in the extremely popular restaurant, before walking round to 'Don't Tell Moma' - a bar where the waiters and waitresses take turns to entertain the audience by singing show songs, accompanied by piano. We had an excellent night, drinking steadily as the Broadway wannabies belted out their songs expertly (although I didn't recognise the majority of the music, I was impressed by the professionalism and ability of the singers). We didn't leave the bar until after 3 am, amazed that we were still able to stand (after being awake for so long following our overnight flight, of course!).
Strangely, we were not up too early the following morning, but once dressed, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast of bagels, croissants and cream cheese (you can get whipped Philadelphia in the States). Andrea and I then went for a walk down by the river and through Carl Shultz park (where some scenes from The 25th Hour were shot). We stopped briefly (it would have been all afternoon, had I not dragged Andrea away) at the 'Small Dogs Playground' where New Yorkers bring their tiny pooches to run around and play with others. This may not sound that interesting, but when you see the dogs being carried in designer handbags, zipped up with just their heads poking out, or in papooses, strapped to the chest of their owner, ribbons etc tied to their fur, you can imagine how much amusement we derived from the spectacle.
Heading West, we paid a quick visit to the Guggenheim Museum, before meeting Pat and Max in Central Park. We spent the rest of the afternoon soaking up the sun and watching a game of softball in the 'lungs' of the city - it was absolutely brimming with people due to the pleasant change in the weather. Walking back to the apartment, we were waylaid by The Racoon Bar, and spent an hour or so imbibing and enjoying the atmosphere of a rough and ready New York bar on a Sunday afternoon. Once back, we were treated to a fantastic home-made roast by Pat (it felt like Christmas!) and spent the evening watching films. A somewhat earlier night beckoned!
With both our genial hosts at work on the Monday morning, we helped ourselves to breakfast and then walked across the city and through the park to catch the Circle Line ferry, for a tour around Manhattan Island. We spent the next three hours on the water, enjoying the sights and detailed commentary, really getting a feel for our surroundings, and establishing our bearings. Back at the pier, we walked the short distance past Times Square and onto 5th Avenue, where we met Pat for a coffee on the steps of the National Library. After our refreshment, the three of us conducted our own walking tour of that part of the city, visiting the lobby of the Empire State Building, the Flatiron Building and various other Art Deco structures along the way.
That evening, our taste buds were again treated to another delicious home-cooked meal by Pat (I now have the recipe and will be making it upon our return home!). Taking it easy for the night, we all watched 'Love, Honour and Obey' - a superb Brit-flick, and one I'll have to watch again when we return home.
Following a reasonable lie-in, we returned to The Empire State, but this time, went up to the observation area at the top. It was a gloriously clear and sunny day and consequently, we had fantastic views of the entire city. In between jostling for position, we managed to spot a variety of landmarks from our lofty vantage point, recognising some of the places we had already visited, and some that we would still like to see. Following lunch in a typical New York diner with Pat, we made a brief foray into Bloomingdales as Andrea wanted to see the floral exhibit there, but unfortunately (for her) it had ended a couple of days previously. Cramming in as much of the city's main tourist attractions as possible, we sauntered along to the Chrysler Building for a look at the Art Deco interior. It was certainly as impressive as the finely detailed exterior, with patterned marble, a ceiling frieze, and intricate panelling on the 'elevator' doors. Finding it impossible to hail a cab to return to the apartment, the three of us settled for walking all the way back. With leaden feet, we slumped onto the sofa and chilled out for a little over half an hour before changing and walking to the subway station.
We hopped on a train bound for Brooklyn, and once there, found our way to the bridge. We had timed our walk back across to Manhattan to coincide with the sunset and subsequent illumination of the city, and were not disappointed with the scene. Looking across, we saw that the Empire State was lit up in green, with a couple of nearby buildings in pinks and reds, and the Chrysler's dome was a bright white. These all served to draw our eyes into the magical, yet commonplace, panorama of the Manhattan skyline - something I'd always wanted to witness since childhood. This time succeeding in staking our claim on a cab, we zipped round to Pat and Max's local, 'Finnegans Wake', to meet Max for dinner. Continuing the theme of partaking of a few drinks, we enjoyed our meal, then returned to the apartment, where we stayed up talking until 2 am!
For our last day in New York, and in fact the whole trip, we met up with Caroline, one of Pat's 'ex-pat' friends. We wandered around by Central Park, before having coffee and returning to the apartment for a sumptuous fry-up (we were being extremely well-fed!). With neither of us having much energy, Andrea and I decided to take things easy and prepare ourselves for our flight home, later that evening. With a little bit of time to go out and grab some parting gifts for our generous hosts, we had one last look out across the skyscrapers and reflected on our time here. New York is certainly a wonderful city to visit, made all the more enjoyable for us, thanks to the hospitality of Pat and Max, and we'd both definitely love to return, perhaps at Christmas time to immerse ourselves in the festive atmosphere and hopefully walk through a Central Park swathed in a carpet of snow...
...But for now, our travels are over, and we are looking forward to returning home; to catching up with our families and friends; to being able to wear different clothes; to being able to finally take off our packs; to drinking English beer (well, maybe that's just me); to watching familiar tv (especially sport); to start to once again earn money instead of spending it; and to beginning our next adventure of sharing a house together! Don't worry, we won't make you read all about that too!
Dan and Andrea



