Torres del Paine, part 2
Trip Start Dec 09, 2009
17Trip End May 17, 2010
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Where I stayed
Poszlismy na nastepny kemping (Italiano), ktory lezy u podnoza tego lodowca. W przewodniku Lonely Planet pisali, ze to najpiekniejsza dolina na szlaku "W" (Valley Frances)
A ostatnia czesc "W" prowadzila do lodowca Grey wzdluz nastepnego turkusowego jeziora. Juz w polowie drogi widac bylo przydryfowane bloki lodu - nie spodziewalismy sie, ze beda takie niebieskie. W oddali widac bylo wielki jezor lodowcowy, a z boku o poszarpane szczyty rozpruwaly sie chmury i plynely jak dym - widoki jak z mangi... Z punktu widokowego widac bylo tylko kawalek lodowca, wiec po skalkach przeszlismy na cypelek, ktory byl najblizej jego sciany. Same skalki byly wielowarstwowe, kolorowe i powykrecane jak rolada. Dobrze ze turysty dochodza tylko do punktu widokowego, bo mielismy ten skrawek tylko dla siebie.
Patrzac wstecz zdecydowanie polecamy zachodnia czesc "W", bo jesli chodzi o droge na same Wieze, stosunek widokow do wysilku jest dosyc mizerny i w jeszcze ten mroz..
On the way to camping Los Cuernos we found what we were looking for - views making the head spin 360 degrees around and 90 up and down - huge turquoise lake, sharp summits, condors... This part looked quite different than the first one, and we like Los Cuernos much more than the Towers. We spent a night in a hammock on a camping by the lake. We heard thunders and we hoped to see thunderstorm, but it didnīt happen. In the morning we heard the thunders again, although sun was shining. We went to sit by the lake, and we found the source of thunders - it was Glaciar Frances on a summit nearby. Its parts were falling down from time to time roaring - in a form of snow waterfalls on vertical walls, and in a form of small avalanches on less vertical ones...
We went to the next camping (Italiano), which lies close to this glacier. The Lonely Planet guide says itīs the most beautiful valley on the "W" Circuit (Valley Frances). And it really is. When we went to the middle of it in the morning the weather was really bad, and everything was covered with clouds
And the last part of "W" led to glacier Grey along next turquoise lake. Already in the middle of the trail drifted blocks of ice could be seen - we didnīt expect itīs so blue... In a distance we could see the glacier tongue and on the side knife-like summits with clouds ripping on them and flowing like smoke - views like from mangas... From the final viewpoint we could see only a piece of the glacier, so we went through rocks to a cape which was the nearest to itīs wall. The rocks themselves were multilayer, colourful and twisted like Swiss roll. Luckily tourists get only to the viewpoint, so we had this piece of rock for ourselves...
Looking back we definitely recommend the western side of the W, because on the way to the towers proportion of view to effort is quite poor, and this freezing cold... Altogether we walked about 80km, mostly with backpacks, so it was nice to get some rest in El Calafate. And now we are in El Chalten, heading for Monte Fitz Roy, iiihaaaa!!!