Its Half Term and the Schools and Orphanges closed
Trip Start
Feb 19, 2009
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6
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Trip End
May 19, 2009
Mtwapa, Kenya
Friday, February 27, 2009
I've met several of the other volunteers who come and go very quickly here (no doubt the accommodation at the Volunteer House plays a big part in their decision to stay for a long time); the average volunteer stays for about 2-4 weeks before they either go home or move on to another project or start their African travels. Most of the volunteers are aged between 18 and 26 with two of them currently (Stephen is 37 a security guard from East London and Michelle 35 who works in advertising); they've been here just over a month and will soon depart for the UK where they hope their jobs are still open to return.
I've been here a week today and I still think I made the right decision to move into Mtwapa Creek Cottages where Marie and Ka Ka are such lovely people and have welcomed me into their family. To keep my costs down to a minimum I am on a self catering basis (I can use the kitchen and store my food in the fridge and store cupboards); so I'm not spending more than 18 pounds a day which includes a very nice room with bathroom. Marie and I have become very close quickly; we are only a few months difference in age and her English is excellent; she has been in Kenya for 10 years this year and her son Geoffrey attends Nairobi University where he is sitting his final year of Masters in Business; he is also his mother's son; very calm, wise and respectful and his girlfriend Shana is also a nice girl. Ka Ka is half Ugandan and half Indian; they met 5 years ago when Marie's husband ran off with a local girl (she hasn't seen him since); she has finally obtained a divorce - as the authorities have no trace of him and consider that he's either dead or just doesn't want to be found (not rocket science) any ho Marie and Ka Ka are very happy and face their many challenges each day with a smile - as a thank you for their helpfullness and putting up with my gun fire of questions; i'm trying to help them update their web pages and see what promotion and advertising opportunities there are for them.
As I can't work at the Orphanage this week I've been spending my days exploring the local town of Mtwapa and Bumbai; whenever I can hitch a lift with Ka Ka and his staff into Mombasa I do; most of his business takes place in the old town and this has alot of character! I tend to follow him on his daily exploits of buying equipment for their business; from swimming pool filters to equipment for their fishing business; they own a large Dow that Ka Ka and his staff made from scratch - you'll see a photo of me with his staff (the fishermen) who come from an area of Mombasa called Pember where the fishermen's families wait for them to come home each day around 3/4pm; they start their day at 3am - no HR policies on time and attendance out here; if you come home empty handy you take a beating from your wife!
Everyone is very friendly and helpful out here; at first it was a little intimidating and unsettling walking around with shorts and T-Shirt, blonde hair and a duffle bag glued to my waist and neck amongst 2000 shoeless locals; 82% of whom are unemployed; but I'm catching on and walk with a mission in hand and say "Jambo" alot; (Hello in Swahili); say that 200 hundred times a day and you wake up in the middle of the night screaming it!
Ka Ka and Marie are well respected pillars of the local community and it's a bit like travelling with a local dignitary when we got out in his van; he employs several local people and with unemployment so high; many people are ver grateful to them. Marie is also a little like Mother Theresa in that she visits the local families and hands out food and 100 shillings whenever they can afford to themselves; as I said before the streets are full of people just sitting in the shade with no work trying to busk a few mangos or papayas from trees they've picked from in their home villages. You'll get the picture of how it is out here in some of the photos I've taken - the high street in Mtwapa is cluttered, dirty and packed full of old market stalls, there are cows everywhere and goats feeding in rubbish tips for a few scraps; unfortunately as you'll see so are the poorest of the locals too; it is not uncommon for them to die from this either. Its very, very hard to even comprehend their meagre and often very dangerous existence; surviving only on maize and what everyone else throws out. I'm starting to count my blessings; we are all very lucky.
The Housekeeper at MCC (Mtwapa Creek B&B) is a lovely guy called Khamis (pronounced Ha-me-see) who is only twenty although he looks much older and his quietness and gentle wisdom would put him well past this age; he has seen a lot in his young years but is very upbeat and smart; I find him very calming and we exchange tales and information whenever he takes a break which isn't often as being Muslim he also prays privately 5 times a day; Khamis doesn't have an employment contract either!! and goes about his daily chores around MCC from 6am to 10/11pm each day (including weekends); but the conditions at MCC are considerably better than his home (he shares his bed with two young nephews AND the same bedroom with 4 other male relatives; I'd say the room is no more than the size of the average UK kitchen (believe me I've seen it). Khamis is employed by Ka Ka to clean, cook, washing, ironing, all house hold tasks, feed the animals and look after the family and guests; he is in charge of 3 others who do more meanial chores like watering the grounds, tending the vegetable gardens, walking the guard dogs, cleaning all the outside staff accommodation etc. It his Khamis's choice to work the hours he does (the little overtime and tips he receives from guests go along way) as both his mother and father died before they reached 35; he has several brothers and two sisters; all younger; his pay also keeps his Grandmother and several of his Aunt's and Uncles and their children fed and watered in their poor community. I've spent a little time at Khamis's home and befriended many of his family who call me "Manninna" which means kind person in some version or other of Swahili.
Anyway I hope this gives you guys some idea of life out here; I don't plan on writing about poverty and the general lack of provisions; but unless I stick my head under a pillow whilst I'm out here; I'm going to tell it like it is.
Be grateful for what you have back home; you are very rich and extremely comfortable albeit riding along with unsteady economic times ahead but you have your health, wealth and freedom - these people REALLY don't!
Till next time. Stay happy.
Amanda xx
Comments
Great camera work!
Some great pictures of the community and such blue skies....one can almost feel the heat. How is your tan coming along....and don't forget factor 40 for midday sun as well as the tabs for the sharp nosed gnats! Keep your blog going ...you have an appreciate audience here.
Stay safe
Dadx