Well what dhow ya know!

Trip Start Dec 22, 2011
Trip End Apr 18, 2012

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Flag of Kenya  ,
Saturday, January 7, 2012

Having no water is really a bummer.
I do not need continual showers, but it is nice in some circumstances to be able to flush at will. Ho hum.

A long walk to see the next beach round the corner was the master plan, before we were called to order and headed out for a trip on a dhow on Mida creek, which is about 10 minutes down the road. Mida Creek appears on the “fingstado” lists of the area, being famous for birdlife.
We seemed to have a lot of luggage for one evening's boat trip...  beyond hats, suncream and food there were enough Tuskers to keep anyone quiet for days and of course a couple of drums. As you do.
By the time everyone had assembled there were ten of us. A couple from Texas, “hi, how's y'all doin'?” Kyle had those great shoes on which have separate toe compartments. Not sure why they are a good idea, unless of course it is to stop the fungus spreading to every digit? Lesley his wife was supercharged.
There were six of us, Andrew & Larisa, Sim & Tess, Nick & I: and the other couple were Mary Ann (another Texan who lives here) and Wendy, a freelance photographer who works for the UN and various charities.
Mr Masai waded through the water and loaded our bags and we pushed off. A small dhow, with bougainvillea fluttering from the mainstays. The water was clear as clear and as we slipped along one could see the bottom for much of the time. Some weed, some coral, and loads of sand.
The creek is edged with mangrove roots which sit with their bottom in the water like old men in a row swishing their thin legs in the water to get cool.
The creek was almost deserted apart from one or two fishermen in hollowed out boats, poling their way across or baling vigorously.
On the other side of the creek is a flock of flamingoes, so we headed over there to see..  but not before going aground as it is quite shallow in parts. Separate Toed Kyle leapt out to push. Our dhow man leapt out to push. Andrew leapt out to push...  and we all sat on one side and leaned out.
Thankfully, Kyle and the dhow man had not leapt in with their mobiles in a pocket.
Ah well. The bad boys in the market would be able to retrieve the numbers off the dead phone as they do in all dodgy places.
The feast laid out before us was astonishing and delicious and rapidly disappeared between the ten of us.
The sun went down over the water as we watched; some jumped in for a swim, holding fast onto the rope draped astern of us. Although it did not feel as if we were moving very fast, we were slipping through the water smoothly and covering a fair amount of  ground. 
Then the drumming started, with the sound stretching out over the gentles ripples of the water. Almost a full moon, at one point we sat in silence and listened to the sounds of the Ocean in the distance (or was it a motorway?) and the occasional bat/bird noises around us.
What a great way to enjoy an African night!
Moon river, African style.

Slideshow Report as Spam


Birgit Stebbing on

To think at this time you wrote this N & I were in our thermal undies, sipping vin chaud below towering snow-capped peaks... Chacun a` son gout, as my arthritis prof used to say...
Miss you, Ali and Mr N - roll on Bondi Beach... Really hope the Glass Tower loo has not been able to reach there xx

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