South to Sulphur

Trip Start Sep 29, 2011
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Trip End Oct 04, 2011


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Flag of United States  , Hawaii
Saturday, October 1, 2011

We meant to leave the condo at 6:45am but because of various different delays didn't get away until later, which meant that we arrived at the Bay right after the dolphins departed. Alan and Jean waved us back to the car, and we all drove down the road to Two Step. Although the dolphins never appeared, we had a wonderful swim for about an hour, seeing a ray, an eel, a tang parade, and listening to the parrot fish munch the coral. (Must look up how much sand a parrot fish can poop out in a year; heard a disturbing amount, like three tons. Surely that can't be right...) I tried out my new goggles, and they worked perfectly. The water was the ideal temperature, and the sea was remarkably calm (yet again). Lovely way to start the morning.

From Two Step, we went up to Jean's place, which was fun and funky. Finally met Newton, her spazz-cat. Munched macadamia nuts while Jean made delicious burritos for brekkies
Jean's Garden
Jean's Garden
. Num. 

Around 11:30am, we finally motivated to get going on our drive south down the island. Before we left the Captain Cook region, we paused briefly to see the Painted Church on Painted Church road. Charming ceiling, especially, looking very much like a tropical night. And the wall behind the altar is a trompe l'oeil cathedral. Alan thought the devil looked a lot like Alan ... hmmm.

Dry forests and lava flows are my memories of heading southward ... 

We passed through an area known as Hawaii Ocean View Estates ... 11,000 lots spread across an old lava flow. A web of roads apparently cover the slopes, although few of the lots are actually built on. The homes are isolated -- no natural water table, very windy environment, and without an accessible beach. But Jean has a friend who lives in the area, who loves it, and a new, large market has been built since the last time Alan and Jean were through...so maybe it's not as bad as it looks.

Points of interest included:

Black sand beach, with basking turtles and an abandoned restaurant
Alan and Paul on the porch
Alan and Paul on the porch
.
Hawaiian sweet bread bakery (southern most)
Volcano National Park art gallery
Steam Vents
Sulphur Boardwalk
Jaggar Museum and caldera
Lava Tube and rain forest
Dinner in southern most restaurant
Rain on drive home. 

Arrived at 9pm, exhausted. The thought of getting up early tomorrow to go swimming is not yet appealing. Think I'll go to bed, sleep well, and hopefully feel re-energized in the morning.
 

 
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