Trip Start Jul 11, 1987
10Trip End Jul 27, 1987
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We slept late today! By the time we were up (8:OO or so), the sun was very bright. It was a clear day with little wind. Paul took a brief swim, and we discovered that the water was not as cloudy as it seems.
At some point, we lifted anchor and began a leisurely motor with the jib only up the channel. The highlight of the trip was being chased by a group (school? pod? flock?) or dolphins by the airport. We counted at least ten at once. Then they disappeared as quickly as they had come.
Outside of the Moorings, we hailed them and quickly got a pilot
On the way up to Tahaa, we discovered more dolphins --this time, too many to get an accurate count. What fun! They stayed for quite some time, too. We were on a downwind run, with Kevin at the helm. The wind god must have taken a disliking to Kevin as he forced him once into an accidental gibe. No harm done, except the peanut butter tried to run away. Self-preservation, probably.
We checked out the anchorages at Baie Tapumau and Baie Vaiorea. We attempted a day anchorage at llot Tautau, bu the winds and currents made it impossible. We anchored in Vaiorea and dinghied over. Tautau has a beach with a perfectly framed, stunningly gorgeous, absolutely incredible view of Bora Bora. Wow!
On the dinghy trip, we first headed towards the small motu to one side. The water soon grew shallow and, due to current, we became caught on coral. Staghorn coral. Since we couldn't get out and push, we tried to pole our way out. With the strong current, we were being twisted and turned against the coral, and soon began to float backwards
We found a better path (i.e., it worked) to the large llot beach. Kevin found a live cone shell, which we figured was not the poisonous sort. I wanted Kevin to try it out, but I guess he's not that dumb. Paul tried to cross to the other side of the motu, but discovered it was barbed with deep grass. Never mind; he swam across the inlet to the other motu. Don and Arlene went out shelling.
A very gorgeous young man appeared with a tub of fish. Tom spoke with him while Ardice ogled subtly. (Paul had returned at this point.) The man was from Canada but was part Tahitian. He rows on his surfboard from Tahaa to Tautau, towing his bucket. No wonder!
Kevin took a bottle of Heineken and filled it (once he had drank the beer!) with sea water and sand. Art! Art! Paul too the bottle, filled it entirely with sand and proclaimed it a pedestal for the grate over the firepit. We filled two wine bottles which we found on the beach with sand, too, and had a perfect balance for the grate. Tom dug a nice pit in the sand. It took a while to start the fire (as we had forgotten lighter cubes), but once it got going, the charcoal caught quickly
We had steaks with basil and garlic salt that were heavenly. Perhaps the best steaks anywhere, especially with the secret ingredient: sunset over Bora Bora. We also had tropical fruit salad and declared ourselves fulfilled.
After a nice talk, we returned to Buttercup. Ardice was in the bow, holding the torch to look for coral heads. Don forgot to warn her that the lights attract fish. A large fish cam bound-bound-bound out of the water, trying to join her in the bow. The light went out immediately.
We enjoyed a perfect evening ride in the dinghy. The stars were out, the skies were clear, the night was warm, the waves were calmed, the wind had stilled. Ideal!