Kyoto temples or bust

  Kyoto, Japan
Monday, April 24, 2006

I've managed to escape Tokyo. Although I'm an idiot, I mean missing a train once is ok. But I managed to miss the Kyoto train twice, going back to the ticket office, tail between legs, promising I'll find the correct platform this time. Actually, as I have an unlimited rail pass for 14 days, I could keep missing the train all day long. Now wouldn't that be fun. These trains are good, again everything is repeated in English, can somebody tell British Rail to come have a look?

The only thing I knew about Kyoto, before opening my guide book, was that it had naming rights on the environmental treaty a few years back. Kyoto has a lot more going for it than that. Like some 2000 shrines and temples scattered around the region, and 17 world heritage sites!!! Its the cultural capital of Japan. I can feel my camera finger twitching just thinking about it. I've been told to watch out for temple fatigue by some other backpackers, as they roll off the hit list of temples they've seen. I had to grab another beer half way through the list!

I've stayed at a couple of backpacker places around the station. BudgetInn was good, but KsHouse was amazing (nicest hostel I've ever been in). Both are roughly the same price, about 3000 yen.




Before I start on the temple pilgrimage, I just want to mention that the Japanese are the nicest, friendliest people on the planet. Always smiling, happy to try and chat in English (its compulsory at school). One women even left her grandmother standing on a street corner, while she directed me personally to the hostel. And the girls here are stunning, I've never enjoyed walking down a street as much. Ok focus, MUST look at temples! I noticed loads of people on bikes in Tokyo, but here in Kyoto almost everyone has a bike. Every street has stacks of bikes parked, and they all cycle on the pavement. So watch out.



I've decide to break myself in gently, and visit the temples within walking distance of the hostel. So, after 5 minutes walking, phew. Temple Higashi-Hoganji (just rolls off the tongue), covered for restoration, well not so much covered as fortified. With a large metal building covering the whole main building. Shame nice view of the Kyoto tower. Still can't complain, it has a small moat around it (key word being small). Filled with killer carp.

Further downtown, a whopping 20 minutes, is Nijo Castle. Massive white walls surround the place, and more water. Crossing though the large wooden gates, into the gravel courtyard. Where they have more walls and even more ornate gates (is this some kind of puzzle, a castle within a castle). The place is packed with manicured trees, trimmed to an inch of their lives. Massive groups of school kids being escorted around, all wanting to say hello. The castle was used by a very nervous Shogan who wanted to know if somebody was near him, so he fitted the place with nightingale floorboards. They sing (squeak) when walking on them, so nobody can sneak up. Didn't think about tourist though..what a noise. In the center of the garden is another large moat, this time with large brick walls. Impressive stuff and amazing gardens. Finally, like a the final piece in a Russian doll set, you get into the very center and the temples. Now, can I find my way back out again?

Damn, I've actually managed to drain my camera battery dry...and its only 3 o'clock. This place is a photographers dream, so if my photographs are bad. I'll have to perform seppuku (ouch).