Tissamaharama and Yala National Park

Trip Start Jun 07, 2008
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Trip End Apr 05, 2009


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Flag of Sri Lanka  ,
Friday, July 25, 2008

EN:
After several lazy days at Arugam Bay, we made the brave decision to move on to Tissamaharama by tuk-tuk and bus. The journey of just over 200km took us the whole day and we had to change bus 3 times. For the first part of the trip we chose to use the tuk-tuk which turned out to be equaly slow as if we took a bus, mainly because our tuk-tuk driver needed to obtain a special permit to be able to leave the east coast and it took nearly 45 minutes to sort it out. After more then 3 hours of a bumpy ride (just over 70km), we finally arrived to Moneragalla to catch our first bus. The busses are marked only in Singhalese and Tamil, so it took us a while to figure out which one to take. But eventualy we got on and went.

The bus was moving really slow and after about 20 minutes we got a flat tyre. It was in the middle of nowhere, so we waited for the next scheduled bus to pass by. In about half an hour we spotted a completly packed sweaty bus which turned out to be the right one, so we squeezed in with about 30 other people from our previous bus and our backpacks, nearly hanging out of the door. The roads on the east coast are especially bad, it looks more like somebody accidentaly spilled asfalt on the ground and if you are a girl, a sports bra is highly recommended for bus trips in Sri Lanka (breast feeding women may end up with butter instead of milk). We were jumping like popcorn, but made it to Wellawaya where we took another bus all the way to Tissamaharama, nothing special happened on this bus, only some old nasty man almost sat on Eva's lap, trying to squeeze between her and another woman (which he eventually managed to), gross! (says Eva). In Tissamaharama we missed the stop, but luckily right after we called our pick up at the stop - Nelson, and he told us to get off and drove us to our hotel which was nice and had a swimming pool, we jumped right in, great feeling after that sticky trip!

We spent the next morning just being lazy at the pool and in the afternoon we set off to the Yala National Park for jeep safari. Only a small part of the park is accesible to the public, but we still saw a lot of birds, squirrels and some other cool animals, like peacocks, buffalo, spotted dears, mongoose, wild boars, elephants, monkeys, crocodiles, jackal, and we were lucky enough to see two leopards (which is very rare). The Yala park is right on the coast, so we also stopped at the beach where 2 bungallows used to be before the tsunami washed them off leaving just the floors. Several people were staying in those huts at the time and now there is a memorial built right next to it to remember them.

It is the dry season on the east coast, so we returned home covered in orange dust, so we jumped in the pool again.

PT:
Depois de alguns dias de lazer em Arugam Bay decidimos rumar a Tissamaharama, em tuc-tuc e autocarro. Tivemos que mudar de autocarro 3 vezes, a viagem de apenas pouco mais de 200km levou-nos todo um dia. Decidimos fazer os primeiros 70km em tuc-tuc, pois pensámos que seria mais rápido, mas no final a viagem acabou por ser tão lenta como de autocarro, principalmente porque o condutor do nosso tuc-tuc precisou de obter uma autorização da policia para poder circular fora da aldeia e só isso levou quase 45 minutos. Cerca de 3 horas depois, aos saltos pela espécie de estrada, finalmente chegámos a Moneragalla para apanhar o autocarro. Os autocarros apenas estavam identificados em Singalês e Tamil, por isso levou-nos um bocado a encontrar o autocarro certo, mas como quem tem boca vai a Roma lá conseguimos embarcar.

O autocarro era lento e parava em todo o lado, e, como se isso não bastasse, passados 20 minutos de viagem tivemos um furo! Toda a gente teve que descer e esperar pelo próximo autocarro, que passou cerca de meia horas depois e cheio... miraculosamente toda a gente se conseguiu enfiar no autocarro, incluindo nós com as mochilas apesar de irmos literalmente pendurados na porta. As estrada era mesmo muito má, e, aos solavancos, lá conseguimos chegar a Wellawaya para apanharmos o próximo autocarro. Desta vez a viagem correu relativamente bem, tirando os solavancos e os habituais problemas de sobrelotação. Em Tissamaharama não saímos na paragem certa mas por sorte telefonámos ao tipo que nos ia levar da paragem ao hotel (Nelson) e ele apanhou-nos mais à frente. O hotel era bastante bom e em 5 minutos já estávamos na piscina a lavar a poeira da viagem.

Passámos a manhã seguinte na piscina e à tarde fizémos um safari de jipe no Parque Nacional de Yala. Apenas uma pequena parte do parque está aberta ao público, mas ainda assim vimos bastantes animais: montes de aves, pavões, bufalos, veados, mangustos, javalis, elefantes, chacais, macacos, crocodilos, e até tivémos a sorte de ver 2 leopardos o que normalmente é muito difícil. O parque é mesmo na costa e parámos numa praia espectacular onde vimos os restos de um complexo de cabanas de praia que foram totalmente destruídas pelo tsunami. Várias dezenas de pessoas de diferentes nacionalidades pereceram aqui nesse dia, e agora há um monumento erigido em sua memória. Voltamos a casa cobertos de pó, e saltámos directamente para a piscina.

CZ:
Po nekolika valecich dnech jsme ucinili statecne rozhodnuti vyrazit do Tissamaharamy tuk-tukem a autobusem. Je to jenom 200km, ale zabralo nam to cely den a 4x jsme museli prestupovat. Prvnich 70km jsme absolvovali tuk-tukem v domeni, ze usetrime trochu casu, ale bohuzel to bylo prast jako uhod, protoze nas ridic si musel cestou vyzvednout povoleni k opusteni vychodniho pobrezi, a to mu zabralo skoro tri ctvrte hodiny. Celkem jsme se drkocali pres 3 hodiny, ale nakonec jsme stastne dorazili do Moneragally. Tady nastal dalsi kamen urazu, protoze vsechny autobusy maji napisy jenom v Singhalstine a Tamilstine (ani jeden jazyk nepouziva latinku), takze nam docela trvalo vybrat ten spravny. Nakonec se zadarilo a my se vydali na cestu.

Autobus jel jak snek a asi po dvaceti minutach jsme pichli. Bylo to v oblasti, kde lisky davaj dobrou noc, takze jsme vsichni vysedli a cekali, az kolem pojede dalsi linkovy autobus. Asi po pul hodine se objevil upocenej a totalne narvanej autobus a bohuzel to byl ten nas netrpelive ocekavany, takze jsme se i s ostatnima asi 30 pasazerama a nasema mega batohama prinacpali a odfuneli smer Wellawaya. Sice jsme skoro viseli ze dveri, ale jeli jsme. Silnice jsou tu fakt strasny, spis to vypada, jako by se nekomu omylem rozlil asfalt. Damam rozhodne doporucuji stahovaci nebo sportovni podprsenku, hlavne tem kojicim, mohlo by se jim stat, ze cestou utlucou maslo. Ve Wellawaye jsme uspesne prestoupili na dalsi bus a uz se nic zvlastniho nestalo, akorat jeden starej uchylak si mi skoro sednul na klin, kdyz se snazil nacpat mezi me a dalsi pani, coz se mu nakonec bohuzel podarilo. V Tissamaharame jsme jaksi zapomneli vystoupit, ale nastesti jsme nevedomky hned nato volali nasi spojce na zastavce a ten nam porucil okamzite vystoupit. Vedel priblizne, kde jsme, takze nas vyzvednul a dopravil do hotelu, kde byl dokonce i bazen, tak jsme do nej hned skocili, coz bylo absolutne super po te polosilene jizde!

Druhy den jsme se cele dopoledne jen tak valeli u bazenu a lenosili a odpoledne jsme meli naplanovanou navstevu narodniho parku Yala. Smi se tam jenom jeepem, tak jsme si jeden objednali a vyrazili. Pristupna je jenom mensi cast parku, ale i pres to jsme potkali spoustu ptaku a veverek a take jine zajimave tvory, jako pavy, bizony, srnky, lasicky, divoka prasata, slony, opice, krokodyli a dokonce par leopardu (to jsme meli fakt stesti). Rezervace je primo u pobrezi, takze jsme se take zastavili v miste, kde drive stavaly dva bungalovy, z nichz po tsunami zbyly pouze podlahy. Ted je tam pomnicek venovany tem, co tu zemreli nebo zmizeli.

Na vychodnim pobrezi je zrovna obdobi sucha, takze domu jsme se vratili totalne oranzovy od prachu, tak jsme to hned umyli v bazene. :-)
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